North face of Athabasca
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Hi, |
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The crux is condition dependent at the time of your climb, it could look like it did last summer in Aug or April depending on what happens in the rest of their winter. Just bring some high powered glass, and scope if from the parking lot. If you don't like what you see, do the N. Face bypass, or the Silverhorn if that looks good. |
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Jon, |
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You will be able to see the rock crux from the road, but to the detail of 5.6 or 5.8, probably not. |
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You have done the route? |
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I have done a variation of the N. Face. I saw a ice runnel out left and took that to the top as it looked more interesting years ago. Yes, you can see the rock finish from the glacier if i remember correctly. |
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You can do the crux no problem if it is completely dry. I climbed it in August 2014. Even giving it a "Rockies 5.8" grade i.e. sandbagged, I feel is a bit much. Can't be that much harder than M4-ish 5.5 technically. Of course it might feel harder in boots. It's not that bad. |
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Steven, |
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I met Barry Blanchard in the Bugs last summer and he said something similar - in fact several guides I met from Yamnuska guides stated they won't guide it anymore. |
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C, |
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In May, it will not look anything like that pic. Will be mixed climbing. |
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Yes, forgot to add, that we are now looking at a July attempt |
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If you can climb an M6 at the crag, it will feel considerably easier technically. Lots of good feet everywhere. In my opinion, it will climb easier in early season, but pro will be harder to find. More of a headspace pitch. |
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Mid July 2013 Really straightforward, agree that it is substantially easier than M6. It is loose, I've barndoored on there due to loose holds other times. However, it's not vertical, and it's only a couple bodylengths of the steep. Of course, it's above a thousand foot face, but the pro is good lower down, just don't spike yourself if you fall :) I think I placed a pink tricam and a smaller nut and just climbed through, it's not that steep. |
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I'll be up there through May and keen to give'r on that pitch if you wanna rope up. Also down for some other alpinizing? Shoot me a pm if you're interested. |
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