shoulder replacment and climbing

Looks like my shoulder osteoarthritis is so bad that I need a shoulder replacement. I was wondering if any climbers have had their shoulders replaced and how it affected their climbing?

This may help!

mountainproject.com/v/ac-jo…

Chris

Not trying to be a dick, but even a really banged up shoulder that is put back together is nothing like a true joint replacement in terms of recovery and post op functionality.

Luigi, wish I had some info for you but I have no recollection of talking to anyone that's had an actual GH joint replacement done that's an avid climber.
Hopefully someone will post up, I'd certainly be curious to hear about it.

I screwed up my shoulder 25 years ago and had a surgery on that which resulted in a limited range of motion. In 2006, the same shoulder started causing lots of problems and progressively got worse. I couldn't even do pushups because of the pain. I finally went to see a surgeon in 2009. There was no cartilage left in the join and the head of my humorous was completly worn down from rubbing on bone. My range of motion was terrible.

My surgeon replaced only the head of my humorous. He cut several bone spurs off also. One of the spurs was the size of a golf ball. The surgery was a real pain because of the one I had several years prior. Regardless, I was back to climbing three months after the surgery and was still seeing new benifits eight months after the surgery. I am climbing better now than I have have and I am 47 years old. My shoulder is better than it has been for 15 years.

My range of motion is still whacked. I can't lift my arm anywhere near straight up which does cause problems from time to time. That problem is not the result of the most recent surgery though. I am able to hang on it and that helps stretch things out and I do see some small improvement from time to time.

My surgeon only replaced the head of my humorous because he said a I would wear out a complete replacement in just a couple of years. Right now I have titanium rubbing on bone but don't have any issues and can't feel any of that in my shoulder.

Things are WAY better after my most recent surgery than they were before it. I definitely recommend getting the work done if the arthritis is that bad.

Really banged up shoulder??? They took an inch off of my clavicle, ground it down, opened up the AC joint and replaced three ligaments with donor tissue (and screws), they re-attached the rotator cuff and repaired the bicipital tendon and then anchored the labrum which was completely torn. I think it could be very similar to a replacement.

Chris/Jerry thanks for sharing your histories, they are encouraging. So you guys can actually hang off your shoulders, do pullups? Not that I am looking to do pullups, just wondering to what levels have you pushed your shoulders to? My current condition doesn't allow me to do pullups, hurts with pushups but I manage to still do some weight training and climbing. Yeah, my shoulder is with severe arthritis and greatly reduced ROM but currently still able to climb 5.10 even easier 5.11 occasionally and would rather still climb with current limitations rather than risk not climbing at least at that level with a shoulder replacement. My current pain level I can live with, anything that would remove me from climbing is to be avoided at all costs. Still love climbing after 40 years of doing it.

Several ortho clinic sites list 4 activities "not" allowed after shoulder replacements; football, wrestling, gymnastic activities and rock climbing. The first 3 I understand but there are many levels of rockclimbing and many climbs (even difficult climbs) can be done statically, in control; certainly requiring upper body/shoulder strength but not to the level of the first 3 activities.

Still hoping to hear other folks shoulder stories. There has to be some climbers out there with full shoulder replacements.

I am sure someone in this community has had a full replacement.

Push ups still hurt and pull ups are slowly starting to feel a little better. The moves that hurt the most still are the ones overhead with thumbs down and just a dead hang on the shoulder...if I flex the deltoids just a little, the pain goes right away (more discomfort than pain I should say).

Good luck with that shoulder and I hope you recover quickly!

Chris

I have had three total-shoulder replacements, in 2004, 2005 and 2008. I had severe osteoarthritis and other shoulder issues resulting from old injuries. Today, I climb an average of three days per week. I'm not as strong as I once was, a result of age and the other traumas endured by my shoulders, yet I climb within a number grade of my lifetime high.

The first replacement (right shoulder, in 2004) was a botched job by Jon Erickson, an orthopod who was recommended by another climber who had his shoulder replaced. After my replacement, I was never able to raise my right arm past horizontal.

After shopping around for opinions for what to do about it, one recommended orthopod told me she wouldn't touch my shoulder and that I should go to the very best in the country because, at that point, I only had once chance to save my shoulder. One name she gave me practiced at Mass General in Boston, one at Columbia U in NYC, and one was David Weinstein, who practiced in Colorado Springs. He saved my right shoulder.

In Nov 2005, when he opened my shoulder, he noted that it was full of puss and that the prosthesis he removed (with difficulty) had been recalled from the market. After a month and a half on powerful IV and oral antibiotics, which damaged my achilles tendon, I was clean and could have the revision done.

After three months of physical therapy, I was climbing big holds on a slightly overhanging climbing wall. Five months afterward, I was climbing as hard as I have since. My right shoulder is fragile, more because of old injuries rather than the joint replacement. Thumbs-down jams and ring locks scare me, yet I will do those if not too compromising.

In 2008, Weinstein replaced my left shoulder, which had progressively declining range of motion since a 1967 football injury and which had been bone-on-bone since 1990. It has much better range now, although neither shoulder has its original range. After decades of being my worse shoulder, my left is the better one since its replacement.

I would definitely recommend replacing your shoulder joint. Shop around and get a lot opinions and recommendations. The wrong doctor, however, could set you back. If you would like more info, you may send a PM.

I didn't have replacement but pretty major shoulder surgery, everything that can be torn. Lots of hard wear now. I did ten months of rehab and now I have full range of motion snd I am stronger than before and can climb harder. Just make sure your shoulder doc has done many many many shoulder replacements snd be religious about rehab. Good luck!!!!

Jerry and George, thanks for sharing your stories. Like I said haven't got to grill anyone that climbs and has had a partial or total shoulder done. Definitely a learning experience to hear what y'all had to say.

Chris, like I said. Wasn't trying to be a dick or callous but from the perspective of a surgical fix on a shoulder all the damage you did was to anatomical structures that are external to the glenohumeral joint. So your cartilage surfaces and the overall bony integrity of the glenohumeral joint were still intact.

I'm not saying that you didn't totally tool your shoulder but the OP is talking about the ball and socket joint disintegrating from the inside out. And most orthos that do joint replacements are specialists in just that, they only do joint replacement.

Luigi, good luck w/ the shoulder and climbing.
BA

No worries Brent! Good points my friend.
Chris

Luigi,

Three days a week, I do 50 pullups and 100 pushups, it takes just over five minutes. No problems at all. Before my surgery, I couldn't do 10 pushups because of the pain.

I can hang on my arm with the replaced shoulder but I have to use my other hand to keep from turning. If my body turns while I am hanging, that causes all kinds of pain and problems. I have fallen and shock loaded that shoulder a couple of times since the surgery and have no issues with that.

A reminder - my surgeon only replaced the head of my humorous. He said a complete replacement would not work for me because I would wear it out. Right now, I do pretty much anything I want without concern; which wasn't the case before my surgery.

The humerus head of my right shoulder was shattered into many pieces while descending Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia , I had a joint replacement surgery after six days of the fall which I'm still recovering from.

The first thing that the doctor told me was that I will not be able to swim, which was my favorite sport. But to the irony of it, swimming was the miracle that made me recover so fast that my physiotherapist was shocked with the improvement that happened during only one weekend (when I had the courage to go to the beach and swim against the doctor orders).

Soon will climb mountains again, and one day I will stand on top of the world.

Never let anyone tell you how to live your life, what to keep and what to let go, what to fight for and what to neglect ... it's your life, climb the highest mountains, surf giant waves, or swim across the ocean, it's your life and only you decide how to live it.

I wish to hear from you and tell us how did the surgery go and whether you went back to climbing again.

Update:

One year after the surgery I climbed mount Kilimanjaro. the highest in Africa
Two years after the surgery I climbed a 6500 meters mountain in the Himalayas
In few months I will climb Elbrus, the highest in Europe.
One day I will stand on top of the world.

.
.
.
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Never give up a dream

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6roJ-dl4yI

I am 68 and was diagnosed with osteoarthritis 5 years ago. I opted for shoulder replacement per consultation with my surgeon. The socket and rotator cuff were good so just the head with anchor shaft were "installed". I have climbed since I was 21; starting at Indian Rock while at Cal. I did not want to stop...maybe just change goals.
I worked hard to get back my range of motion. And I have enjoyed the company of many encouraging climbers while I attempted to still push my limits. My PT was quite helpful with exercise and optimism. My doctor shook his head when I showed him pictures of Rodellar but did not say stop or alter my activities.
The community of climbers is one that I have enjoyed being with for 47 years, I hope to continue climbing and offer support and information regarding my experiences.

Ive been reading this forum with interest and also for inspiration and advice! Im a 62 year old female, UK climber, recently diagnosed with severe and widespread arthritis in my right shoulder( After a sub acromial decompression)
Disappointingly, four months post op, I haven't improved very much. Still pain and discomfort at night. However, Ive decided to start climbing again, as its uncomfortable whether I climb or not. The dilemma is whether I go for a shoulder replacement?? from what you guys say, you are all back to climbing at some level. Ive been told that after a replacement there will be no more climbing for me!!!! any advise will be welcome Thanks

pauline hearne wrote: any advise will be welcome Thanks

Wow Pauline,
I am so sorry to hear of your injury and relatively slow recovery from the procedure. I'm not familiar with arthritis nor the procedure that it would take to reconstruct your shoulder so I am reluctant to offer any advice on the subject. I'm curious why they have told you that the surgery would end your climbing career? What specifically are they telling you that would lead to such a dire prognosis?

Some said that I would not be able to climb at the level I did prior to my surgery; they were partially correct, but I was 48 years old and the injury occurred a year prior. I still feel the shoulder, its not 100% but I knew that it never would be and also knew that the surgery was 100% necessary to to the extent of the damage. I don't regret for one second my decision to have the graft and reconstruction done.

Still climbing strong both rock and ice at 51 and feel very fortunate to be able to do so. Maybe ask why specifically the surgery would keep you from ever climbing again. I'm wondering if you could rehab it to a point where you could still get out and enjoy the rock with minimal discomfort?

I've always been an advocate of avoiding the knife, but sometimes its the only means to being able to pursue the passions that we so enjoy.

I am a 65 yo female that likes to rock climb still after 40 plus years of involvement.  I had my hip resurfaced after researching after my health care provider said that their total hip replacement would be give me no ability to run, and do active sports.  I am now running and mountain climbing with gusto.  Now, darn it all, I have arthritis in my right shoulder and both my provider and the people who replaced my hip say total replacement is necessary.  The right shoulder has no cartilage and grinds, is stiff and hurts.  The left just makes noise and creaks.  I have read that after replacement no rock climbing and there is a limit of 25 pounds for lifting.  Has anyone had a shoulder resurfacing?  That would be replacement of the socket and a small cap on the humerus.  If so, what are your limitations?

Suzanne Diesen wrote:   I have read that after replacement no rock climbing and there is a limit of 25 pounds for lifting.

I have seen two orthopedists, fifteen years apart, who both said I am a candidate for shoulder replacement due to arthritis. Both told me I would need to give up climbing and any other heavy activity with my arm. The last orthopedist I saw last year, told me I would need to eliminate activities involving lifting anything over 15 pounds. 

The concern is that, while I would have better range of motion and less pain. I could loosen the joint and damage the replacement. They stressed that you want to avoid a second surgery to repair the shoulder. Too many risks each time you have a surgery.

Despite the stories I read on here about climbing after a shoulder replacement, I chose to not have the replacement and deal with the bad shoulder, so I can continue my activities.

Chris Graham wrote: Really banged up shoulder??? They took an inch off of my clavicle, ground it down, opened up the AC joint and replaced three ligaments with donor tissue (and screws), they re-attached the rotator cuff and repaired the bicipital tendon and then anchored the labrum which was completely torn. I think it could be very similar to a replacement.

Sorry, that's a lot of stuff, but it is in no way comparable to a shoulder replacement.  

In regards to shoulder arthritis, has anyone had successful stem cell therapy?  Especially with bone on bone situations?  Stem cell centers are like subway sandwich shops sprouting up as the newest craze.  After attending one informational seminar, they send you constant emails and notes to get your business.  However, some people have reported success.  It seems like this type of procedure still needs to develop and is costly and requires repeat procedures every three years or so.