Newer TC pros wider? Options for similar fit but slightly narrower toe box?
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I have been loving TC pros for years. I had to send off the pair I had been using for resole, and broke out my newest(3rd or 4th) pair of TC pros a couple months ago. They seemed a little different (i.e. poorer) performance, but it wasn't until they broke in well that I noticed why. Yesterday specifically my foot was rolling off edges where they shouldn't. When I had a close look, there is space along the inside of the foot/ball of foot/ big toe. I got the resoled pair back from the resoler, and held them side by side. The new pair is noticeably wider, enough that there is too much width for good edging on my foot. |
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Hmm...that's weird. My suspicion is it was a one-off; remember, these are hand made. Could also be due to how it was laced; are the laces the same length? The upper is leather, so perhaps it just stretched? |
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mountainhick wrote:I have been loving TC pros for years. I had to send off the pair I had been using for resole, and broke out my newest(3rd or 4th) pair of TC pros a couple months ago. They seemed a little different (i.e. poorer) performance, but it wasn't until they broke in well that I noticed why. Yesterday specifically my foot was rolling off edges where they shouldn't. When I had a close look, there is space along the inside of the foot/ball of foot/ big toe. I got the resoled pair back from the resoler, and held them side by side. The new pair is noticeably wider, enough that there is too much width for good edging on my foot. Is this a one off, just normal variation in production or a trend in the TC pro? Based on this, I won't order any more via mail order, and will compare new ones to my old ones for toe width And, What's the next narrower shoe with overall similar fit and performance? NO DOWNTURNS! has to be very similar last to TC pro. ThanksSeeing how La Sportiva hand makes their shoes, I would write this off as a variance in craftsmanship. I've owned four pairs of Mythos with three the same size and those three did not fit the same. Sorry you aren't getting your monies worth out of them. |
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Check out the Butora Altura |
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Ted Pinson wrote: Could also be due to how it was laced; are the laces the same length? The upper is leather, so perhaps it just stretched?No. The width across the sole rubber and the interior are wider as if constructed on a wider last. The inside edge wraps up around the side of the toe in use rather than staying under the toe. Re: trying on multiple pairs, let's just say due to working in the outdoor industry, buying in a retail store made absolutely no financial sense at the time of purchase. Ted Pinson wrote: Maybe try the new Anasazi Whites? I believe Anasazis tend to run a bit narrower, although the toebox is less asymmetrical. Worth a shot, though, as they are suppose to be the best edgers.Thanks for the thought. Are the whites based on more or less the same foot shape/last as other anasazi models, classic, green, pink etc? |
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Robin S wrote:Check out the Butora AlturaThanks, Do these soften up as much as TC pros? I am not looking for super edging shoes per se, and really prefer my TC's after wearing out the first sole and resoling. The end up quite a lot softer. |
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mountainhick wrote: No. The width across the sole rubber and the interior are wider as if constructed on a wider last. The inside edge wraps up around the side of the toe in use rather than staying under the toe. Re: trying on multiple pairs, let's just say due to working in the outdoor industry, buying in a retail store made absolutely no financial sense at the time of purchase. Thanks for the thought. Are the whites based on more or less the same foot shape/last as other anasazi models, classic, green, pink etc?Yeah. Same last as far as I know, but much more aggressive in terms of heel tension, and much stiffer. For comparison, here's the Pinks and TC Pros, both in EU size 46, although clearly that means something else to each company, as the Pinks are also a bit shorter: Pink vs Pro 1 Pink vs Pro 2 Pink vs Pro 3 |
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Thanks Ted, |
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Ted Pinson wrote: My suspicion is it was a one-off; remember, these are hand made. jgfox wrote: Seeing how La Sportiva hand makes their shoes, I would write this off as a variance in craftsmanship.While this maybe a one-off, a few years back, Sportiva climbing shoes across a number of models got a bit narrower (supposedly from a new stitcher) that long time wearers found their usual sizes to not fit anymore (and definitely drove me toward Scarpa). This seems to have been "corrected", but maybe not in the direction the OP prefers. |
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mountainhick wrote: Thanks, Do these soften up as much as TC pros? I am not looking for super edging shoes per se, and really prefer my TC's after wearing out the first sole and resoling. The end up quite a lot softer.Not sure, I haven't worn them. I work in a gear shop where we sell them. They're hemp lined so they shouldn't stretch much. I know that out of the box, they're just as stiff as the TC pro. I don't know if the fit is the same, definitely try them on. |
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You might be onto something. I have owned a pair of 39.5 tc pros a few years ago that I also did not like after they broke in. I bought a friend's resoled 39.0 and while the performance was what I was looking for, they sorta made my feet cry. Mainly by curling and crushing my 4th and 5th toes. I recently bought a new pair in a 38.5. Even when they weren't really broken in, they were much more comfortable than my old 39s, especially in width. |
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Super info! thanks all! |
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I have a pair of TC 44.5s from 2 yrs ago that fit me perfect. Bought another couple pairs of 44.5 to replace that one about 8 mos ago. They both run almost a half size big. |
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I have a new pair of Scarpa Techno X which I bought instead of the TC Pros, for the same type of climbing. I love them, comfortable, precise, best edging shoes I've ever had, and now that they have a little wear on them, they even smear well. |
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If the resole included having the rand redone at all then that will change the shape too. My buddy just got his TCs resoled along with the rand and the toe is more narrow now. |
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Alex Rogers wrote:I have a new pair of Scarpa Techno X which I bought instead of the TC Pros, for the same type of climbing. I love them, comfortable, precise, best edging shoes I've ever had, and now that they have a little wear on them, they even smear well. But be careful of the sizing - I had to go up from my usual 44-45 to size 46, they are ridiculously undersized. I strongly recommend trying them on if you can, otherwise go up a full size from your normal if ordering online.Thank Alex! Ryan Hamilton wrote:If the resole included having the rand redone at all then that will change the shape too. My buddy just got his TCs resoled along with the rand and the toe is more narrow now.Not. Thanks for the thought anyway. |
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The Katana Lace are narrower, but the toebox design is different as well, so you'd have to try on a pair. I think they probably "edge out" the TCP's in edging. |
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Thanks, I have tried Katana lace, but as stated in my original post in somewhat more emphatic language, I can't tolerate downturns. |
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Lol. Katana laces have a gentle downturn. |
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Ted Pinson wrote:Lol. Katana laces have a gentle downturn.Yeah, I know. And I've tried many subtly downturned shoes. Anything that forces the big toes to point downwards inside the shoe causes searing ripping pain in the extensor tendons. |
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Yikes! Understandably emphatic, then. |