Summersville Lake (main) Rock Climbing

Follow Rte. 19 north from Fayetteville and the NRG for about 20 miles. After crossing the obvious bridge over the lake (with views of the cliffline on both sides), turn into the parking lot for "Summersville State Park". Follow the dirt and gravel road up the hill to the new state park parking lot. Although the following directions may sound complex, if you just follow the main signs of foot traffic, you'll get directly to the crags.

HIKING DIRECTIONS:  From the parking lot, follow a wide gravel trail past the gate for 1-2 minutes, when the trail splits at the base of a hill, trend right and up to the top of the hill on a dirt road.  As of 2023, there is a temporary DANGER Equipment Crossing sign at the top of this hill.  Continue along this rocky dirt road down the hill, keeping an eye out for a narrow left exit that descends down over a small creek.  If you continue straight instead of left, the trail eventually ends up at Pirate's Cove, home to awesome winter bouldering and the classic Mutiny, 5.11d.  At the left exit, the creek crossing should be nearly visible from the dirt road.  Cross the creek and follow the blue flagging tape, trending right at a hairpin turn, and continue along the most beaten footpath.

After following this mostly straight path through the forest for another 5-10 minutes, look for a downhill path on your right at the very end of the obvious sign of foot traffic, dropping through a thicket of rhododendrons.  As of Spring 2023, there is a single piece of blue flagging on a small twinned hickory tree.  This path leads down dilapidated wooden berms to another creek crossing and the new metal staircase at the downstream end next to the waterfall.  The staircase put you near the DC Memorial Boulder. 

In the summer months, watch for copperheads along the lake trails, but please do not harm them.

In 2020, NRAC and the USACE Army Corp updated the wooden ladder to a new and improved metal staircase. The staircase is easy to use and makes the lake climbing more accessible for those with small children, dogs, and those carrying crash pads for the wonderful lakeside bouldering in the winter months.