Gunks in the summer?

Eric Engberg wrote: Acadia (not Arcadia). will have a lot more diversity in options to do. Close to an infinite amount of beta available - don't need to reinvent the wheel describing it.

I dunno about "diversity of things to do." Depends what the "things" in the list are. For a family with a little kid and a non-climbing spouse, I'm not at all sure Acadia wins the diversity prize.

As for beta, there's an infinite amount for all the areas mentioned. The OP asked for advice, which automatically asks for some wheel reinvention. Some of us tried to help out, that's all.

And I do appreciate it. :)

Ted Pinson wrote:And I do appreciate it. :)

The Gunks is great. You will have to either get a hotel or hope you can get a spot everynight at the AAC Campground or reserve the non refundable campground site ahead of time and hope for good weather.

Rumney might be a better option for you guys. Hiking, rafting, climbing and eating all in a close-ish vicinity. The access is easy to the crag and cragging seems to definitely be the way for you to go. ALso, since its sport itll be easier for you to wear yourself out quickly and have time to do things with the fam the rest of the day.

Tylerpratt wrote: The Gunks is great. You will have to either get a hotel or hope you can get a spot everynight at the AAC Campground or reserve the non refundable campground site ahead of time and hope for good weather. Rumney might be a better option for you guys. Hiking, rafting, climbing and eating all in a close-ish vicinity. The access is easy to the crag and cragging seems to definitely be the way for you to go. ALso, since its sport itll be easier for you to wear yourself out quickly and have time to do things with the fam the rest of the day.

Personally I'd find Rumney difficult with a little kid. Pretty rural/isolated up there, not many places for a non-climber with a kid to hang out that I could see (I'm not an expert, only been there. 4-5 times).

Optimistic wrote: Personally I'd find Rumney difficult with a little kid. Pretty rural/isolated up there, not many places for a non-climber with a kid to hang out that I could see (I'm not an expert, only been there. 4-5 times).

I can understand that. I grew up in a place much like that area so maybe I am just used to that sort of thing.

rgold wrote: I dunno about "diversity of things to do." Depends what the "things" in the list are. For a family with a little kid and a non-climbing spouse, I'm not at all sure Acadia wins the diversity prize. As for beta, there's an infinite amount for all the areas mentioned. The OP asked for advice, which automatically asks for some wheel reinvention. Some of us tried to help out, that's all.

There is something called the "beach". Most normal families with little kids and non climbing spouses like it - especially in summer. Last I checked New Paltz was a little lacking in the ocean department. Also Acadia would have more diversified hiking and carriage road style biking.

If the question - and this one is just typical of many - is of the "tell me about the wheel" variety, then I think its far better to post pointers to links rather then rewrite. Each additional copying of the data dilutes it. It's fine to expand on specific questions but the OP's have to put in a little effort too. Seems like the bulk of this one was concerns about the heat and humidity mid summer. There are few more pleasant places to be in the north east on the average summer day then Acadia.

Optimistic wrote: Personally I'd find Rumney difficult with a little kid. Pretty rural/isolated up there, not many places for a non-climber with a kid to hang out that I could see (I'm not an expert, only been there. 4-5 times).

Id also find single pitch sport climbing in Rumney a pretty terrible alternative to the Gunks. Either go north to ADK or Acadia or just deal with the humidity in New Paltz. It may not be ideal but you'll still enjoy yourself.

If you go to the gunks you also have the option of going to New York and Connecticut beaches on an off day or to new york city if the kids want to do museum of natural history/kids in nyc stuff.

storm king down the road from new paltz (about an hour??) is amazing and worth a day.

We hit it one day when it had rained in the morning.

mnjsan wrote:I'd also find single pitch sport climbing in Rumney a pretty terrible alternative to the Gunks.

But many of the Gunks classics are only a single pitch, or not much more than that. Or ...
more precisely, many of the high-quality Gunks routes have two pitches (or three), but only one of them is "classic".
. (and many climbers who know the Gunks well avoid including the non-classic pitches).

Anyway there are virtually no points on the Gunks cliffs where you cannot span between bottom and top with a single 60-meter rope. The main reasons for breaking Gunks routes into multiple pitches are rope-drag and convenience.

If you're looking for routes with real multi-pitch commitment, gotta go somewhere else.

Ken

johnva wrote:Storm King is amazing and worth a day.

Amazing for what?

kenr wrote: But many of the Gunks classics are only a single pitch, or not much more than that. More precisely, many of the high-quality Gunks routes have two pitches (or three), but only one of them is "classic". And many climbers who know the Gunks well avoid including the non-classic pitches. Anyway there are virtually no points on the Gunks cliffs where you cannot span between bottom and top with a single 60-meter rope. The main reasons for breaking Gunks routes into multiple pitches is rope-drag and convenience. If you're looking for routes with real multi-pitch commitment, gotta go somewhere else. Ken

Not to mention the lack of bolted anchors that would stop him from being able to climb those climbs as well. Assuming he would be the one climbing and cleaning that is...

Y'all born and raised New Englanders are weather masochists--and I say this as someone who spent quite a few winters in Montana and Seattle. The summer up here is downright unpleasant--it's hot, sticky, buggy, and it's probably gonna rain on you to boot. I like the climbing around here a lot, but it's not somewhere I'd plan a trip to in advance.

Go to Squamish!!! If you're driving, it's farther than Acadia (but the drive's a helluva lot prettier) and there are oodles of non-stop, non-expensive flights to Seattle from Chicago. There's the whole tourist mecca of Whistler, there's a gondola in Squamish now (sad face), there's hiking, and Vancouver is easily day-trippable. Summer weather in the Northwest (or Southwest if you're Canadian?) is delightful and reliable--the chances of more than 2 or 3 days with rain during the entire month of July are minimal. Squamish is known for the Chief, but there's literally every kind of climbing you can imagine.

Or go to Colorado and climb up high somewhere. Wife and kiddies can diddle around in Aspen while you're up at Independence Pass. Or fly to SF and go to Tahoe. Save your trip to the Northeast for the fall.

Jimmy Sledd wrote:Go to Squamish!!! If you're driving, it's farther than Acadia (but the drive's a helluva lot prettier) and there are oodles of non-stop, non-expensive flights to Seattle from Chicago. There's the whole tourist mecca of Whistler, there's a gondola in Squamish now (sad face), there's hiking, and Vancouver is easily day-trippable. Summer weather in the Northwest (or Southwest if you're Canadian?) is delightful and reliable--the chances of more than 2 or 3 days with rain during the entire month of July are minimal. Squamish is known for the Chief, but there's literally every kind of climbing you can imagine. Or go to Colorado and climb up high somewhere. Wife and kiddies can diddle around in Aspen while you're up at Independence Pass. Or fly to SF and go to Tahoe. Save your trip to the Northeast for the fall.

Big thumbs up.

Colorado gives you a ton of options. If it's cold there's plenty to do in lower elevations and southern CO. If it's hot, head into the hills.

I've been to many climbing destinations with my now 2.5-yr-old, including Squamish (@ 1yr) and the Gunks on multiple occasions. 1.5-yrs is tough. Awkwardly mobile.

The biggest question is what your wife is going to do while you climb? Are you looking for a crag where you can all hang out together. Will she hike with the kid in a backpack? Or are you just going your separate ways?

Climbing with little kids in tow is all about the approach and base area. The Gunks can be fine in this regard, but not ideal. The approaches are all safe, along the carriage road, but there are few places to comfortably splay out and be out of rockfall danger. E.g., Ant's Line is good. It's also not easy to come and go throughout the day.

Squamish is as close to ideal as I know. Smoke Bluffs in particular.

Does your big trip have to be in the summer? Maybe more options in cooler weather.

Rumney is a terrible place to actually bring a child, as far as approach and landing goes.

Ted Pinson wrote:I know. I'm pushing for Squamish, but it's a harder sell since it's so far. Wife doesn't climb and we're bringing our daughter (will be 1.5 yrs by then), so we're looking for a place with easy access and a wide range of activities. I also grew up in upstate NY and have fond memories of New Paltz, although sadly this was before I was a climber...

I am a great lover of New Paltz, but I would pick Squamish in a heartbeat if you have non-climbers, especially kids. We did Squamish with a 3 year old and a 13 month old, and we consider it among our most successful trips.

Feel free to PM me for a list of things to do and ways to make work. Also, meeting new partners seemed easy in Squamish if you will be looking.

Either way, Happy climbing!

kenr wrote: Amazing for what?

World class sculpture park. Could combine with touring West Point too. But not sure these would be ideal for a 1.5 year old.

rgold wrote: I dunno about "diversity of things to do." Depends what the "things" in the list are. For a family with a little kid and a non-climbing spouse, I'm not at all sure Acadia wins the diversity prize.

• Hiking - long, short, level, steep, whatever, including a few quasi-via ferattas.
• Mtn biking on the extensive carriage road system
• Playing in/around the numerous lakes.
• For kids especially, tons of exploration: the rugged, rocky coast, life in the tide pools, the bog on the west side.
• Whale watching boat rides
• Other boat tours
• The ferry to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia (a very full, long day - bring your passports)
• Tour of the fish packing plant in SW Harbor
• Walk across the natural causeway at low tide in Bar Harbor and explore the small island (with the abandoned mansion, if it hasn't succumbed to the elements by now)
• Ranger-led interpretive programs
• Rent sea kayaks or canoes
• Try and find the old cog railway line up Cadillac Mtn (it was *really* difficult to find it 30 years ago - I suspect only short sections are still discoverable - but I know the lines of iron anchor pins in the bedrock granite will still be there. It would take a bit of research to know where to start looking.)
• Stargazing at the summit of Cadillac Mtn.
• Eating lots of lobster.

Disclaimer: I spent 1-3 weeks every summer with my parents in Bar Harbor from age 3-17 and always loved it. I did not start rock climbing until college (Gunks, Oct 1972, w/ Rutgers U Outdoor Club. On that trip I met someone named R. Goldstone who was leading the totally terrifying Something Interesting while I was gumbying up Three Pines).

As someone who has been climbing for well over 20 years and has 2 kids(17 and 14) and is "still" married, I may have a little advice.

Not to burst your bubble but a trip with a wife who doesn't climb and a young child, you may want to modify your thinking on a location that may be enjoyable for everyone.

I have been climbing in the gunks for as long as I have been climbing and we also have a cabin 15 miles outside of acadia national park. My wife and kids are always way more excited to go to maine than the gunks. Both places don't really compare as far as a family vacation destination.

I am not really going to repeat what Marc already stated but he is pretty spot on.

Your dream may be to go up to the trapps everyday and crag while your wife walks the carriage rd and walks down main street but what is she going to do the second day.

Acadia has to be one of the most beautiful and amazing places on the east coast.
I don't know anyone that wouldn't have a good time there. I would never recommend a non climber to go to new paltz for more than a day or two.

You also won't be climbing everyday. I am thinking every third day, maybe every other a couple of times. You will enjoy your off/down days way more with your wife and kids in acadia than new paltz.

Save the gunks for when you go with one of your bro's.