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Midwest Ice Conditions-16/17 season

Remo · · Madison, WI · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 13,727

Ryan, I will be there Friday and I will try and report back.

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176
Ryan Zwart wrote:Anyone have any thoughts on ice conditions at Governor Dodge this weekend? Traveling from Southern IN.
Stephens' Falls right side is fat and climbable as of last Sunday. Could squeeze 3 distinct lines. One area near the top was partially separated from the wall, leftover from the heatwave a couple weeks ago, it will probably fill in by this weekend.

Harms Falls right side is ice, but 10ft tall. The left side was iced over but still had a waterfall down the center. Should look better this weekend but probably another week to climb without getting your shorts wet.

JC
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

What is Harms falls?

mark55401 · · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 355

anyone up for Nightfall near Grand Marais? I'll be GM-based from Feb 17-20

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,680
jon jugenheimer wrote:What is Harms falls?
aka Cox Hollow
ryancrichardson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 56

Anyone know if Dairy Land is in this year?

Bill Thompson · · Marquette, MI · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 245

Yes it is!

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384

Blasphemy, but any thoughts on "one last ice climb day" in the cards for the South / SW Wisconsin climbs? Looking to shoot up there this weekend, and will probably end up bringing the rock gear along just in case, haha! Anyone have new pics from Nose, Wyalusing or Gov Dodge??

I know everyone is at ice fest in MI, just curious about SW WI

Brad Christie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 25

Was at governor dodge yesterday. Very soft but climbable. More like a giant snow cone than ice and melting fast. With temps in the 50s this week I'd be very suprised if it makes it even mid week. Don't know how to post photos from phone.

Joe Cooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Does anyone know if Grand Island is accessible or will be this during the fest? Has anyone been out to Trout Bay this year? Does anyone know if it is possible to set up a top rope anchor, without leading a climb, on the ice seeps in Trout Bay? Thank you !!

Juggler Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,185
Joe Cooper wrote:Does anyone know if Grand Island is accessible or will be this during the fest? Has anyone been out to Trout Bay this year? Does anyone know if it is possible to set up a top rope anchor, without leading a climb, on the ice seeps in Trout Bay? Thank you !!
yes, you can set top rope at Trout Bay, warming up so an island trip may not be possible... will have to wait and see....
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

A few locals went across to the island a few days ago and reported a lot of slush on the surface. That being said, they were on sleds with the throttle pined I am sure. I personally would not walk, snowshoe or ski there right now. They crossed from the boat dock where the ferry service is to the island, NOT off Sand point. Reporting either very thin ice or open water between sand point and the east channel curtains right now.

Yes if you get into Trout bay, you can walk to the top of the cliffs to set up a TR, but a lot of the routes are hard to find from above, and you will be doing a lot of bushwhacking in deep snow to get above the climbs.

Gokul G · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,748
Mikeyy wrote:Looking to shoot up there this weekend, and will probably end up bringing the rock gear along just in case, haha! Anyone have new pics from Nose, Wyalusing or Gov Dodge??
The Nose is mostly drytooling at this point. Was there Sunday morning early. There was one very thin line with a lot of running water and I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't last the rest of the day.





Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384

Gokul, are you further up the tracks from the bridge? Scenery looks different from where I go there

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Mikeyy...

These photos are of the actual Devil's Nose RR cut that we ice and mixed climb on. It's just a little more of a walk up the tracks from the spot back in the woods that you are familiar with.

Charles Westin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 90

Does anybody have a sense what pictured rocks' ice situation will be like this coming weekend?

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

Bad. This warmup and now rain forecasted has or is destroying a lot of the climbs. There will still be ice to find and climb, but maybe not worth a long drive.

EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,207

Rock climbing season!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I just know when I get spring break at end of March,,,its' gonna be snow, sleet, piss weather all over me up at DL......just my luck.

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384
Woodchuck ATC wrote:I just know when I get spring break at end of March,,,its' gonna be snow, sleet, piss weather all over me up at DL......just my luck.
Snow's mostly gone, at least at East bluff. The base at the CCC lot is chilly and some snow in the woods lower in the approach but the climbs were warm and relatively dry, on a sunny day that is.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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