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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Outback
> Steve Canyon Area
> Steve Canyon
> Orc Wall
Grand Theft Avocado
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.8 from 93
votes
Routes in The Orc Wall
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Candelabra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Grand Theft Avocado T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orc Sighs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orc, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Petty Theft Artichoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Troll, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dave Evans, October 1978 |
| Page Views: | 2,776 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 27, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The route to be descibed is the most obvious crack system moving up the low-angle S-faceing buttress of the South Wall on the West Side of Steve Canyon. That's a mouthfull...In short, it's the first route on the left just before you enter the canyon.
Climb up on a few awkward moves to gain a slightly flaring jam crack and continue upward to the top of the rock in that crack system. If you like a lot of pro, take a double set of cams to 3.5" (grey Camalot).
On top, belay from cams in horizontal cracks under boulders. Rappel with one rope from the bolt anchor atop Candelabra.
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