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Best Spot - Garnet Canyon North Fork

Original Post
ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Planning a trip to the Tetons for next summer and was hoping to get some opinions on the pros and cons of the various campsites in the North Fork of Garnet Canyon.

We'll be looking to do the full Exum ridge (Lower + Upper) and possibly Irene's Arete if conditions and energy levels allow, so probably two nights.

Trying to decide between the Caves, Moraine and the Lower Saddle sites.

I think the Lower Saddle may be the last choice, I remember it being quite cold and windy up there, and the approach back down to the Dissapointment peak climbs may make it counter productive.

While I would prefer not to camp, I'm thinking that doing the complete Exum in a day is a bit much. I've done the Upper Exum before and we will be decently fit, but I don't have the route dialed in by any means, and doing the lower and upper Exum seems like a long day, even if the weather is perfect. Not much margin for error.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

I did a very similar thing ~8 years ago. Day 1 pack into the Caves and Irene's arête. Day 2 the complete Exum and down and out. If you are going to do Irene's I don't think you want to be any higher then the Caves. If only the Exum then either the Morraine or Lower Saddle (there are sheltered spots). Although no days I don't like carrying a heavy load that far and would rather just get up earlier and do it in a day.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Thanks, good intel.

The other option would be to stay at the climber's ranch, try for the Upper Exum in a day, and then maybe something like the SW Ridge of Symmetry Spire on another day.

T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

The Caves are a nice spot,IMO. The Lower Saddle isn't as nice for camping, in my experience.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

Last August, we did Irene's from South Fork camp area. It was ok - up at dawn and back at camp before dark - we were not fast.

Doing Irene's from the Moraines I guess would be similar. And I liked doing the Grand from Moraines.

Maybe two nights at Moraines? Let weather forecast decide whether to do Grand on full day in between the two nights versus the day after second night? If Irene's was the day after the two nights, you're catching it on the way out plus you'll have a chance to have first spotted the descent gully W of Itene's while on the way up to Moraines in broad daylight the first day.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

If you aim to comply with bear / food / human waste policies, a couple more things to throw in about the decision:

Bear canister: Moraines does not have permanently installed "bear boxes" so need to bring own canister.. Caves has bear box and I think lower saddle too.

Human waste: I am pretty certain that Lower Saddle is the only camp zone in the area that has a structure - two seater - making it convenient to use those Reststop bags. ... just have to be resourceful in the other zones.

Josh · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,140

Hi Chris N and others,
I have a very similar question and wanted to hear your updated opinion. Planning to try for the full Exum Ridge this July. Ideally, we would stick around for another day and try something on the Middle Teton-- maybe NW ice couloir or North Ridge.

With no need to get down and around to Irene's from the same camp, it seems like staying at the Lower Saddle is perhaps the best choice, since it makes for the shortest summit days. But I was only able to get a reservation for the Caves (though we can of course try for a walk-in permit for the Lower Saddle or Morraine and then relinquish our Caves reservation).

Chris, now that you've done it (?), how would you prefer to do it again? Camp up as high as possible for the Exum? If you camped down lower, how long was your approach to the Lower Saddle on summit day?

Thanks.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

We ended up at the Caves. It's a spectacular site, and very sheltered.

I don't think there is a "right" answer to this, but here are my thoughts -

Lower Saddle:
The hiking from the parking lot to the Caves is pretty easy. The section from the Caves up to the Lower Saddle is harder. It's longer than you think and it's a slog. It would really suck with a big pack on, and the 4th class section up onto the lower saddle (with the fixed line) could be dangerous if you're tired with heavy pack on. It also can be quite cold and windy on the lower saddle. The upside of the Lower Saddle - you cut off 90mins of approach time in the morning.

Caves:
This is a spectacular site. It's sheltered with good water and good views. The hike in to the Caves with a heavy pack is fairly easy by Tetons standards. The downside is the approach up to the lower saddle on the day of your climb. It can be confusing in the dark - there are literally goat paths that go everywhere. If you don't know the route, you can easily get of course and add time and effort to your morning. We hiked up to the lower saddle the afternoon before to scope out the approach - and we still got a little confused the next morning in the dark.

If I were to do it again - I would stay at the Caves or try for the Upper Exum in day. Carrying a 35lb+ pack up to the Lower Saddle just sucks too much for me.

I wouldn't stay at the Moraines - it's too far away from the start of the climbing routes. In fact, I would rather try to do the Upper Exum in day if the Moraines was my only option.

Whichever site you choose - it's definitely worth talking to the rangers and seeing the start of the route in the daylight. Getting to the start of the Lower Exum is easier than getting to Wall Street, but it would still help to see it in daylight. Getting down from the upper saddle is confusing as well, there are goat paths that go everywhere.

Hope this helps, feel free to PM if you have any other questions.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
ChrisN wrote:... again, there are goat paths that go everywhere.
It should be noted that there aren't goats in Garnet Canyon.

Those are lost climbers' trails.

Ha ha.
ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25
Brian in SLC wrote: It should be noted that there aren't goats in Garnet Canyon. Those are lost climbers' trails. Ha ha.
I know this! I've just always called them goat paths for some reason...

It was a running joke while we were up there... above the Caves, there are paths leading off in every direction. Very confusing.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
ChrisN wrote: I know this! I've just always called them goat paths for some reason... It was a running joke while we were up there... above the Caves, there are paths leading off in every direction. Very confusing.
I've been up and down that trail a zillion times...and...a few years back, in the dark...got lost as heck crossing through the moraine. We'd had a long day (East Ridge of the Grand) and were pretty knackered. Back and forth and down and across and down...ugh...just couldn't find the main trail. Was warm and late and we stumbled onto a big rock with a cave-like overhang. Crawled in a bivied for the night (no sleeping bags but no biggie, was a warm enough night). In the morning...heard voices...and, no kiddin', 20 feet from our little impromptu camp, was the main trail above the caves. Was raining lightly...lovely morning.

Too funny.

Oh well...all part of it.
Josh · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,140

Thanks for the opinions, everyone. Very helpful. See you out there sometime...

Kurt HR Krueger · · Missoula, MT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 441

I'm a cave bivy guy. Always did Irene as an afternoon climb on the way up.
I also do Open Book on the way out. To help that - I stay at the Climbers Ranch the night before we head up. Once you spend a night at the ranch you can reserve a night (helps when you come down late). Or that the way they use to do it.

-K

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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