Anasazi pink, verde and blancos

Interesting thread. I've climbed in Anasazis for years without knowing the true difference between the three. I found the rubber on the verdes to be less sticky, and preferred the blancos. Luckily, I snagged a couple pairs of blancos off the five ten site for $25 or $40 a couple of years ago. Can't remember the exact price but it was cheap. Are they making the punks again? Those were a fav.

Verde used oynxx, as did the golden tan vcs, blanco used c4. The new pink also uses c4.

What the new Blancos will look like

Yeah, Amanda...the new Pinks are the only Anasazi lace ups 5.10 is currently selling, but the Blancos are returning in the spring.

Btw that's an older article with pictures of the last gen Whites...new ones don't have orange, just black and white:

m.epictv.com/media/technica…

fiveten.com/us/anasazi-blan…

Hey-o! Five-Ten let me add it to a cart, so I'm assuming that the Whites are available for all of you die-hards. My Pinks are still in good shape (and I've stopped using any other shoe except for bouldering because they're that good), so I think I'm going to hold off and hope for a unicorn Five-Ten sale. What do you guys think of the new thermoplastic midsole? I actually found that I didn't like my Pinks as much until they broke in because they were too clunky (felt like a Sportiva shoe ;) ) due to the stiffness. Now, they're stiff enough to weight without rolling off but soft and sensitive enough so that I can feel the rock, which is perfect. From what I've heard, it appears the Blanco enthusiasts prefer a similar feel, albeit more toward the stiff side for standing on little nothings. Would the new midsole interfere with this?

Ted Pinson wrote:http://www.fiveten.com/us/anasazi-blanco-chalk-white Hey-o! Five-Ten let me add it to a cart, so I'm assuming that the Whites are available for all of you die-hards. My Pinks are still in good shape (and I've stopped using any other shoe except for bouldering because they're that good), so I think I'm going to hold off and hope for a unicorn Five-Ten sale. What do you guys think of the new thermoplastic midsole? I actually found that I didn't like my Pinks as much until they broke in because they were too clunky (felt like a Sportiva shoe ;) ) due to the stiffness. Now, they're stiff enough to weight without rolling off but soft and sensitive enough so that I can feel the rock, which is perfect. From what I've heard, it appears the Blanco enthusiasts prefer a similar feel, albeit more toward the stiff side for standing on little nothings. Would the new midsole interfere with this?

$195!!!!!! Are you f&cking sh*tting me!!! WTF!!

Glad I still have a fresh new pair of the old blancos in the box, because despite the fact that I love this shoe more than anything, f#ck Five Ten for thinking that $200 is in anyway okay. That's more expensive than the TC Pro, which is a high-top, leather shoe for sh*t sake. What a gigantic bunch of douchebags.

If anyone has a pair of Verdes in a US 9, I will pay a finder's fee. Favorite shoes. Own pinks and whites and like both, but love the greens.

I've got the new pinks in my street shoe size (1/2 down for rest of anasazi's) and they're pretty great for trad climbing. The very first crack climb (granite) i did was kinda painful. The upper isn't very think and the round laces didn't help. They also got chewed upafter only 1 climb. I replaced with flat laces and it became much more comfortable.

Ted: the different anasazi's are different but generally not enough to warrant buying another full price. But it's nice when you can pick and choose for different types of climbing, also wouldn't wanna crack climb in the vcs.

D was that at ERock? I've climbed cracks in my Pinks (sized fairly aggressively) on sandstone and quartzite, and they were fine...but on my gym crack they were very painful. I know ERock can be painful because of all the little crystals, although the Pinks would otherwise be perfect there on all the slabs.

It was actually at the wichita wildlife refuge. Me no like pegmatitic Erock granite, but yes they do very well on slabs. Tas for life!

And you haven't had any problem with the laces? Hmmm Idk man, i just found aggressive shoes and round laces to be a little more uncomfortable in cracks.

I replace mine with flat laces...

I wouldn't call the Pink a terribly aggressive shoe, unless you meant sizing. Interesting point about the laces...never noticed pain due to roundness. I attributed the pain to the thinness of the upper and lack of padding compared to say a TC Pro.

J. Albers wrote: $195!!!!!! Are you f&cking sh*tting me!!! WTF!! Glad I still have a fresh new pair of the old blancos in the box, because despite the fact that I love this shoe more than anything, f#ck Five Ten for thinking that $200 is in anyway okay. That's more expensive than the TC Pro, which is a high-top, leather shoe for sh*t sake. What a gigantic bunch of douchebags.

Climbing shoe prices have remained pretty constant even with rising cost of manufacturing. You might want to look around at other climbing shoe prices.

Scarpa Drago $200
La Sportiva Genius $195
La Sportiva TC Pro $185
La Sportiva Futura $185
Five Ten Quantum $185
Five Ten Team VXI $185
Scarpa Furia $180
Scarpa Boostic $180
Scarpa Booster S $180
La Sportiva Solution $180

And that's just the ones we get in the states.

NorCalNomad Blank wrote: Climbing shoe prices have remained pretty constant even with rising cost of manufacturing. You might want to look around at other climbing shoe prices. Scarpa Drago $200 La Sportiva Genius $195 La Sportiva TC Pro $185 La Sportiva Futura $185 Five Ten Quantum $185 Five Ten Team VXI $185 Scarpa Furia $180 Scarpa Boostic $180 Scarpa Booster S $180 La Sportiva Solution $180 And that's just the ones we get in the states.

In a round-about way you're actually making my point. The shoe manufacturers are setting the price based on what they want to charge with minor correlation to what it actually costs to produce a one shoe versus another. The fact that all of those shoes cost nearly the same despite the fact that many of them are not nearly equivalent in terms of the make of the shoe is telling (e.g. the TC Pro is a lot more shoe than many of the others in the list). The Blanco is just a particularly glaring example.

The last couple pairs of Blancos that I bought were for about $130-140. Not two years later and the price of the Blanco is now $195, which is roughly a 30-35% increase. The price of the TC Pro on the other hand has held steady over the same time period despite the fact that it is much more of a "shoe" than the Blanco (high-top, leather, etc.). This implies that its not material or manufacturing costs that went up, just Five Ten saying 'well sh*t, all the other shoes are $180-190, so f*ck people, let's jack up the price of this "new" shoe to that level'. Essentially what Five Ten did was discontinue the Blanco, then reintroduce it but with a new price tag. A$$. Hats.

Yeah, but the tans and Pinks are $160. (To NorCal)

J, I'm not sure what you mean by ";;the TC Pro is more shoe.";; Is leather inherently more expensive than cowdura? I doubt that, as Moccs are all leather and $125. High top is also obviously not an inherently pricey thing, as the Evolv Astromans are quite cheap. Honestly, the only reason the TC Pro is $180 is because it has Tommy's name stamped on it. You guys came on here and talked about how the Blanco was the best edging shoe on the planet, better than TC Pros, Katana laces, etc. Are you saying that you would pay $180 for a TC Pro but not $190 for a Blanco?

I'm guessing it's a little less nefarious and more about supply/demand. Although they have a devoted following, the Blancos are very much a specialty item, much like the TC Pro (your avg gym/sport climber has no reason to own either shoe). If you're not planning on selling a lot of units, you have to raise the price per unit. They presumably did not realize how much of a devoted following there was before and that it was an ideal shoe for a very specific type of climbing (much like the Pink), so maintaining the lower price point was unsustainable.

J. Albers wrote: In a round-about way you're actually making my point. The shoe manufacturers are setting the price based on what they want to charge with minor correlation to what it actually costs to produce a one shoe versus another.

I'd love to hear about your background in shoe manufacturing.

Some things to consider
-There are import and export taxes on all shoes depending on where they are manufactured and with what material. A shoe can literally be made cheaper with one material over a more expensive fabric but end up more expensive at a retailer because of the duty that is imposed on it. Ever notice how most leather shoes are cheaper? Or how EU shoes are WAY cheaper over in the EU vs USA. It's about $50 cheaper on average on high end shoes with the current conversion.
-TC pro's big price tag comes partly from large pattern pieces of leather.
-Genius price tag comes partly from a lengthier production process (ie more hands on the shoe)
-The Solution has a high price tag because of the amortization of the tooling needed to make the molded heel cups.

Now the Blanco
-Synthetic shoe (not duty friendly)
-Large pattern pieces + lining
-That Ariaprene material on the tongue is not cheap
-Uses a welded eyestay (welding is always more expensive than stitching)
-Uses a thermoplastic molded midsole
-Made with USA labor

Literally the only thing "cheap" about this shoe is the fact that it's using the same lasts so 5.10 doesn't have to buy a new run of those to make them.

Pinks and VCS's are cheap because they don't have any fancy stuff in them and drive way more volume. Also there is historical pricing.

NorCalNomad Blank wrote: Now the Blanco -Synthetic shoe (not duty friendly) -Large pattern pieces + lining -That Ariaprene material on the tongue is not cheap -Uses a welded eyestay (welding is always more expensive than stitching) -Uses a thermoplastic molded midsole -Made with USA labor Literally the only thing "cheap" about this shoe is the fact that it's using the same lasts so 5.10 doesn't have to buy a new run of those to make them. Pinks and VCS's are cheap because they don't have any fancy stuff in them and drive way more volume. Also there is historical pricing.

Well then screw "welded eyestays", "ariaprene" tongues and especially "thermoplastic midsoles"! come on! that's such a gimmick! The old Blancos edged great without a "thermoplastic midsole." By the name it's just a piece of plastic that they melted into the correct shape! probably the same way they make every other piece of plastic for (EDIT) Every other midsole. I like my old blancos for their edging ability, not for the tongue.

A thermoplastic midsole is a gimmick? My all time favorite FiveTen shoe, the Southwest, was a velcro Anasazi with a plastic midsole. I got five resoles on them before I stopped because the liner was so tweaked, but they still edged great. Everyone complains how the Pinks get soft and sloppy, and so did the Blanco's but it took a lot longer. Who cares if they cost $30 more if they last 2-3x longer? We wanna hate on FiveTen for discontinuing our favorite shoes then we wanna hate on them from bringing them back better?

I think the most important thing to hate on is that they removed all the cool orange accents, I will happily pay $205 when they release the 2021 Blanco's with a little orange...

Lol. Simple designs are vogue, but I could care less. I haven't found the Pinks to get sloppy...if anything, they get better as they break in. I tend to like a softer shoe, though. If the midsole is anything like the Sportiva P3, it definitely makes a difference. My Katana laces maintained their stiffness and downturn for a long time even after 2 resoles...I just hate climbing in stiff shoes most of the time because you can't feel the holds and you can't smear as well.

J. Albers wrote:The shoe manufacturers are setting the price based on what they want to charge with minor correlation to what it actually costs to produce a one shoe versus another.

Cost does not determine price. Never has, never will.