Are You F*n Kidding Me??

It does look ridiculous in the picture, but probably there should be confirmation that the landing is as benign looking as it appears or there isn't some other consideration before doing the usual MP pig pile. I know I have bolted a few mini routes, one that would otherwise be a great highball except for the fact that if you bounced off the landing you would go off a cliff mountainproject.com/v/the-d… (the others had really bad landings and were before people used piles of crashpads) A picture of it here without an explanation would probably get the same response.

BCarver wrote: It was an interrogative statement. As in, where does the line get drawn? Is it centered around conservation? safety? fun? I was hoping for more of an introspective answer but I guess I'll settle for the "local ethics" answer.

I started climbing at the New and I always felt that there wasn't really any difference between trad and sport climbing. Many cliffs there have both sport and trad climbing sitting side by side. I just think that drawing lines between types of climbing is a waste of time. Use common sense to create a climb worth doing.

Darren in Vegas wrote: I started climbing at the New and I always felt that there wasn't really any difference between trad and sport climbing. Many cliffs there have both sport and trad climbing sitting side by side. I just think that drawing lines between types of climbing is a waste of time. Use common sense to create a climb worth doing.

Absolutely not. No common sense will be tolerated. Weak beginning trad climbers must continue arguing with weak nooby sport climbers until this is all figured out. There is no grey. You are either with us or against us. This means war. This means you!!!

It looks like there are 5 (FIVE) bolted routes on that boulder

M Sprague wrote:It does look ridiculous in the picture, but probably there should be confirmation that the landing is as benign looking as it appears or there isn't some other consideration before doing the usual MP pig pile. I know I have bolted a few mini routes, one that would otherwise be a great highball except for the fact that if you bounced off the landing you would go off a cliff mountainproject.com/v/the-d… (the others had really bad landings and were before people used piles of crashpads) A picture of it here without an explanation would probably get the same response.

In general I agree with you, however in this case the ground looks amazingly level and unobstructed and if this was on a ledge, most likely the guy who opted to wear a helmet to belay this route would also opt to anchor in while belaying if this picture is on top of a cliff. If you look at it in the map section with satellite view, you get an idea of what is around it.

How about we all hope that the route setter was being altruistic and setting up an easy spot to teach kids how to clip, top out, set an anchor, lower, etc.? I might buy into that.

I think it's legit if it was bolted on lead

They took down the picture from the original post. LOL!

M Sprague wrote: I know I have bolted a few mini routes, one that would otherwise be a great highball except for the fact that if you bounced off the landing you would go off a cliff mountainproject.com/v/the-d… (the others had really bad landings and were before people used piles of crashpads)

Or you can be like AJ, take responsibility and work it as the boulder problem that it is until you can do it reasonably safely without drilling 4 bolts in 20'. Jesus, can't believe people are making an argument for this "route".

Strong Bald Guy. Driving South.

mountainproject.com/v/beta-…

Is this the same pic or just a coincidence???

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

I was bored.

Wow I am absolutely amazed with the amount of time some of you must have on your hands. First off since you have not been there you should maybe consider being consideriate and asking what's up with the route?? Instead of just flipping out.
Yes I agree bad picture!!! I was drinking wine and posted a sucky pic, big deal!

It is a short beginner route...not as bad as the pic seems. There is three bolts up to top anchor. Also its a traverse. Here is a pic of my husband who is six foot on the same route from the same day. If you zoom you will see the bolts.

So sorry I posted a sh** pic and got the third degree.
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Zach and Shannon Tipton wrote:Wow I am absolutely amazed with the amount of time some of you must have on your hands. First off since you have not been there you should maybe consider being consideriate and asking what's up with the route?? Instead of just flipping out.

Ok. I'll bite. What's up with the route?

So, do you have a better photo of this one where the bolts aren't closer together than Planet Granite?

Really hard not to rate this a 'seriously'?

Look, I hate to be a downer, but you guys shouldn't be drilling anything given what's in the photos and comments. In general I'd say you guys should probably go back out and clean up after yourselves now that you've had your fun. And I see the route contributions on your page are suddenly down substantially relative to the amount of damage that's likely already been done.

Again, hard not to ask, "what were you thinking"? Or are you simply new to the sport, thought this was ok, and got carried away?

Damn, they had 44 new routes listed earlier today, now down to 16. You guys are such bullies.

Along the same. ~ 4 years of climbing, and knows everything ~ Line:
ARE YA'ALL EF'IN KIDDING?

Shannon, it's not your photo that's getting you the third degree, as you call it. It's the fact that you've bolted a boulder.

Here's another rock these two bolted that seems overeager. Admittedly these look like highball problems, but still seem not tall enough to bolt, IMO.

Coyote Corner

mountainproject.com/v/coyot…

Tim Lutz wrote: so cute when 5.11 climbers tell 5.14 route developers to 'take responsibility'

So cute if you think the grade that you climb (after projecting for days) is a measure of your worth to the climbing community. Drilling holes and placing bolts permanently changes the rockclimbing landscape. Doing so should not be taken lightly.

So yes. 5.14 climbers like everybody else need to take responsibility if they are bolting.

Now as somebody who doesn't climb 5.14 nor has ever place a rock bolt I offer thanks for those who have placed bolts in 'appropriate' circumstances. But don't think for a second that the grade you climb entitles you to place bolts wherever you feel.

Didn't Dave Graham make a 14' sport route at rumney?