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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m) |
| FA: | Jim Knight & Brian Smoot in 1983 |
| Page Views: | 2,016 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Stymingersfink on Dec 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
The pillar of the Creamsickle is unmistakable for anything else, showing less frequently and for shorter periods of time than most other climbs in the Wasatch. Originally climbed twentyfive years ago on straight-tools...
Cruxes include: Crossing the stream, thin ice slabs and a steep vertical pillar. If you're not up to soloing WI3R, you'd better do this climb in two pitches... or perhaps hit Bridal Veil instead?
Above the thin smears, just at the base of the snow field below the pillar, on the west side: there is a two bolt anchor 190' above the start.
Above the pillar, move up past three icy steps to a two bolt anchor on the west side. Bring some sling to replace the tat hanging there. ~190' rap to the anchor mentioned above.
This pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road... MUCH more so.
Cruxes include: Crossing the stream, thin ice slabs and a steep vertical pillar. If you're not up to soloing WI3R, you'd better do this climb in two pitches... or perhaps hit Bridal Veil instead?
Above the thin smears, just at the base of the snow field below the pillar, on the west side: there is a two bolt anchor 190' above the start.
Above the pillar, move up past three icy steps to a two bolt anchor on the west side. Bring some sling to replace the tat hanging there. ~190' rap to the anchor mentioned above.
This pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road... MUCH more so.
Location
First route of distinction in the canyon. Less than 1/2 mile up the canyon from the guard shack, on the right hand side. Find the next turnout and park. Cross the creek, ascend the thin icy slabs to the base of the pillar, which you may find more of once above the pillar proper. Descend from tree above left of pillar, finish rapping the route.
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