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Midwest Ice Conditions-16/17 season

Brian Seegers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Hey all, stumbled across some videos and pics of ice climbing at Lone Rock, WI. Does anyone have info on conditions there? thanks.

Juggler Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,185

Wildcat today... someone said they climbed it but not sure the park had it officially(legally) open and the sign up sheets out.. looks thin. The up coming warm weather will take its toll, though

UPDATE: found out that climbing was NOT open this wknd according to the park office. Please do NOT jeopardize our right to climb in the Park by climbing when it is NOT allowed. Always sign in and check with the park office FIRST. Climb ONLY in the allowed canyons... Thanks!

Wcat

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

People: please find out the RULES for ice climbing at SRSP. If this happened,,this is an example of what the last couple of park superintendents have said is a concern. Too many people find gear these days, have NO informed info on ice and access and rules and just keep coming to the park to climb without park permission, and not signing in. This will be the death of ice climbing for us here in north central Illinois at our premier state park, where access has declined by 90% in last two decades. DO NOT ruin it for us due to your greedy self centered intent to go try ice climbing at SRSP. NOT at this time when issues of access are being discussed and hopefully will improve, not decline.

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384

Governor Dodge 01/07/17

Stephen's Falls left side, not in:

Stephen's Falls left

Stephen's Falls right side - nice and thick. Kind of beat and kicked out, though but still decent climbing:

stephen's falls - right

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384
Juggler wrote: Nice pic of my butt....
Yup I believe that is you! Tearing it up!
DuWayne Effland · · pewaukee, wisconsin · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 50

Climbed at Wyalusing yesterday. Quarry monster was in fine shape, temps were mild, center of formation was wet. Dropped a BD Express screw blue and forgot to pick it up on the way out. If someone finds it and wants to do the right thing and return it to me, please contact me through MTN. Project. Thanks.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,215

DuWyane? Did you find the V-Threads I left on top of QM?

DuWayne Effland · · pewaukee, wisconsin · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 50

Yup. Thanks!! I left a bail biner to make it even easier for the next person.

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384

Anyone been to Lone Rock bluffs on the river yet to check it out yet? Curious about maybe heading up there, if not somewhere else in the WI area this weekend

mountainproject.com/v/lone-…

Jacob Krenn · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 120

Mikeyy,

I'm looking to get out on Sunday, probably to Gov. Dodge/Lone Rock area. If you'd like a partner, hit me up via PM here or at jacob.krenn@yahoo.com . I've got all my own gear, dry rope, and a few screws. I'm down to lead or TR (would need a couple extra screws for leads). I'm also wide open for any other day in the next week or so (minus Sat. 1/14/17).

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931
Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384
jon jugenheimer wrote:
Jon, Thanks for getting the scoop on this - I have been up to that part of WI four weekends in a row and meaning to build this stop in the trip, it looks kind of thin as of now and will probably be gone with the next few weeks weather? I would climb it if it wouldn't jeapordize the ice - thin is more difficult! :D
Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384
Jacob Krenn wrote:Mikeyy, I'm looking to get out on Sunday, probably to Gov. Dodge/Lone Rock area. If you'd like a partner, hit me up via PM here or at jacob.krenn@yahoo.com . I've got all my own gear, dry rope, and a few screws. I'm down to lead or TR (would need a couple extra screws for leads). I'm also wide open for any other day in the next week or so (minus Sat. 1/14/17).
Hi Jacob,

I will shoot you an email next time I'm going up!
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Mikeyy,
The left pillar looks fat and the right pillar is 3/4 blocked by the rock buttress on its left. Not sure what the rain will do today and tomorrow to it, but the routes do not receive any sun and they are in a cold place along the river. Looking at these temps coming this week, my bet is that they will both still be standing come next weekend.

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384

Really tempting to get out there while that is in! I have been up in WI 4 weekends in a row, now, and am sort of falling behind on local responsibility here though, haha.

From the look of it there may be room for basic top rope belay stance here? Although the enticing part for me with this one is the technical aspect of setting up a top-based, lower in climb with the reverso. Also have jugging gear for the weak!

Juggler Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,185

Burt getting it done in the Devil's Nose! Great to see you!

Burt on ice

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

The way our sucko weather is going, we may have seen the best ice of season already for any areas down in Illinois.....Looks like north of Madison is the answer for any midwest ice in months ahead.....rain , 40's and 50's due for this whole week ahead down near Chicago...Sucks not to have winters like we did in 70's-80's.

Mike Blisz · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 384

It's like a sea change driving up to WI from Chicago area the last few weekends - swampy rain down here crunchy snow and ice underfoot up there!

And if by any chance it did get cold, the park would probably not allow it anyway. Thank you Starved Rock staff! I'll put on my microspikes and hike the boardwalks instead :p

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Yep,..I agree we got screwed over this year. Closed up ice just as it got nice to use,,then no-showed for repeated days in office when trying to meet and discuss the season and future. All points to a negative view, intentionally avoiding some sensible discussion on ice futures. So we better keep looking elsewhere. Its' not going to get any better with the minimal communication and lack of any interest on their part.

Illinois remains the kind of state where outdoor adventure sports are looked upon as a poor decision, IF you live in northern half of the state. Anywhere near cities or big suburbs the whole legality or liability issue seems to stay as #1 focus...(too many dam lawyers and idiots ready to file lawsuits). Go down southern areas and we get compliance, cooperation, and a new rock climbing area opened up this fall, thanks to the efforts of Ill Climbers Assoc, and the Access Fund. I'm guessing that any efforts by them to work for more cooperation up this way have been shut down too, as I found out over 35 years ago, AND COUNTING,,!! up this way to north. We live in a dead zone for outdoor adventures. Doomed by our geographical location in flatlands and where the local stuffed shirts do not have any appreciation for outdoors activity unless they can make a big buck on it. I'm sorry for the negativity, but I've just grown so tired of trying and seeing the sad results...Adventure sports tourism will be the financial gain of areas at least 100 miles north or south of northcentral Illinois state parks or public lands in question.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

From a friend on FB yesterday. The warm temps haven't killed it yet. Hope it can hang on for another 4-5 days before the cooler air moves back in.

Wildcat

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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