Utah Ice Conditions 2016/17
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Hey guys, thanks for the update. I live here in the eastern Sierra, Lee Vining has been good this year. Lots of stuff has come in that is rare or has never been seen before. We just got dumped on (snow) the last few days, but are expecting 6-12" of RAIN from Saturday night through Monday, snow levels 9-10'000 feet. |
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David Lane wrote:Looks like you guys are expecting rain as well, what you guys think about the ice in relation to the latest forecast? I was getting psyched for maple next weekend or so but now I don't have a clue what to think.Hmm. Tough call. Fatality on Frankenchrist in Maple was around a rain event. That said, ice builds when there are nice temp swings especially given how much snow is around. Freeze thaw repeat repeat. The Maple ice might survive as the temp's pop up for only a few days? Dunno. |
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The "Quarrycicle" has been climbed but as per note above, is on private property. No one I know that has done it have been busted. Probably a matter of luck. Climbers get on & off it quickly, some soloed it. Has been known to get fat in weird years. |
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Some of us going to Parley's (Shark's Fangs area, not SCM) this weekend to place bolts/pins at top of some of the shorter, easier sections in west section (climber's left) for those who want to TR the area (recommended) & get a feel for it all. Will post beta as necessary (if & where the new pro is). Parley's might be super miracle this year, depending, depending. Clearing weather may reveal some big stuff in SCM. At least scary. If it rains, forget it. |
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Went up into BCC today and took a couple laps on P1 of Storm Mountain Falls. |
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heads up on directions for Santaquin from the new Utah Ice book. I hadn't been in years so I |
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MFL wrote:heads up on directions for Santaquin from the new Utah Ice book. I hadn't been in years so I unfortunately followed them. Don't get off exit 148 as stated in the new book, instead drive 4-5 more miles! (did he copy the old ice guide directions, i recall those were off too?) Also, it is NOT 1.8 miles from the 1st gate to backoff gulley. wtf?It is exit 244 not 148 (or as the book lists 248) - though I never pay attention. And I would agree from the first (lower) gate to Backoff is about 1.8 miles. Usually takes about 30-45 minutes to walk depending on conditions. That said the wording is a bit confusing because the description using uses lower gate and first gate interchangeably. That said how were the conditions??? |
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PARLEY'S CANYON, SLC, UTAH, JANUARY 6-8, 2017 |
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Allen Sanderson wrote: It is exit 244 not 148 (or as the book lists 248) - though I never pay attention. And I would agree from the first (lower) gate to Backoff is about 1.8 miles. Usually takes about 30-45 minutes to walk depending on conditions. That said the wording is a bit confusing because the description using uses lower gate the first gate interchangeably. That said how were the conditions???My bad on misunderstanding the gate distance ....I didn't make it to the ice due to my poor reading comprehension and late start |
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Found a jacket at the base of Scruffy today (1/8/17). PM if you think it's yours. |
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David Nelson wrote:PARLEY'S CANYON, SLC, UTAH, JANUARY 6-8, 2017 Was great while it lasted (10 days, off & on)...Nice job, thanks for posting. And today-it's 48 F here at my house in the City of Salt, it rained to 8500 and the bc snow conditions are upside down, but it really was great while it lasted..sigh. |
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a.l. wrote: Nice job, thanks for posting. And today-it's 48 F here at my house in the City of Salt, it rained to 8500 and the bc snow conditions are upside down, but it really was great while it lasted..sigh.A.I.; afraid you are right, I think Parley's is toast for the season but keep an eye on it....super water soaked, might miraculously come back but then need to jump on it. Check from Grandeur Peak parking lot now & then, esp. if inversion shows up. (For best view, walk north 75 yards to fence, east 100+ yards & past end of fence for another 50 yards. From there, you can see directly into bowl, otherwise, somewhat misleading if only looked at from parking lot. SCM ice sometimes not seen from parking lot itself, but can see Shark's Fangs, directly north from parking lot). This is what SCM looked like in 2012; walk east (uphill) from Grandeur parking lot, following metal chain link fence. When in the bowl, you are playground surrounded. More beta in Beehive Ice guide. The two long, thin pillars touched down, solid & bonded, one or two days after this pic & climbed same long, hard days as the other routes. When the nightly inversion started receding down the canyon, climbs melted out after 10 days or so; inversion is key to it all, perversely. And super cold temps. SCM in late Jan, 2012. Large thin pillars touched down next day or two & were climbed with other routes; check Beehive Ice guide. Ice grows (& goes) very fast in Parley's. |
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Has anyone seen hidden haven lately? Any idea what kind of shape it's in with with all the lovely rain? |
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Has anyone been to last chance falls up in Logan Canyon this season? I know the canyon is closed currently due to the avalanche by Beaver. |
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I was up there last Saturday and it was fine. However Logan did get hit the week before with enough snow to make the trek up to the ice the crux of the whole thing. But given their rise in temperatures and recent rain im wiling to bet that conditions have slightly changed. |
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How's Maple looking? Hoping to head up this weekend. Wondering if it will be spared from all this warm wet weather? |
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kevinhansen wrote:Looking for BD turbo express screws with bent or dull teeth. $10 each. (Too oh ate) three won too - 8062I sent Kevin two screws and he put money in my paypal account before I left the post office. Talked to him on the phone and he's a real guy just trying to build a rack (like a dirtbag). If you've got some old screws, hook him up! (Nobody else is going to pay you for them....)! |
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R. Moran wrote:How's Maple looking? Hoping to head up this weekend. Wondering if it will be spared from all this warm wet weather?Im interested to know how Maple is if you get down there. |
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Parley’s Canyon is gone as of Thurs, Jan 10, 2017, but the upper catchment areas are soaked as are the formations. In the unlikely chance that we get a super cold period of 4-5 days, major parts will come back, esp. Shark’s Fangs (new route: this photo; see photo above in this string for pic when Shark's Fangs was in the week before. Tall column was grounded, solid but vertical. Screws only mixed below & above column; all other climbs in Parleys usually mixed). For about a fat week, it was great. Not recommended to wander around in the area unless skirting the areas for beta. Not safe to get on the rock w/o the cementing of ice. |
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Also headed to Maple this weekend. Gonna do a turn and burn Sunday. |