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Rock Climbing Photo: Cosmiques Arete crux: the photo  (This photo is no...
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By Nigel Modern
Jan 12, 2017
Hi,

Great photo but (at the risk of sounding like a jerk) current best practice is not to use crampons on the Cosmiques, particularly there at the crux where there are neat little front point holes in the granite from repeated use.

There's usually a rope there now (I think, check...ask at Office de Haute Montagne) for protection, so getting up on the tips of your boots is the way and crampons aren't really needed anywhere on the Cosmiques unless it's become very icy, which I believe is rare,

Ciao
By Bruce H
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2017
Rock Climbing Photo: Arete du Cosmiques
Arete du Cosmiques


When I did the Route in 2015, we used and needed crampons. I was told by a local guide that the crux had been chipped by guides to make it easier for clients to get up it.
Rock Climbing Photo: You can see where the crack was chipped.
You can see where the crack was chipped.
By Chris C.
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 12, 2017
This is actually not my photo. It's one I grabbed off the net as an example as how scarred the route is from crampons for a thread where we were talking about crampon use in Chamonix.

I climbed the route without crampons. I climbed it summer 2016 and there is no fixed line.
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Cosmiques Arete crux: the photo

(This photo is not mine and is an example of the crampon scars on the route.)

Submitted By: Chris C. on Jan 4, 2017
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