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Do you stick clip? Why or why not?

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Doesn't matter as long as you report it as top roping to the first bolt and leading the rest.

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
ViperScale wrote:Doesn't matter as long as you report it as top roping to the first bolt and leading the rest.
Make sure you "report" it when you clip way over your head and do four moves up to a bolt as "partial top rope". Also, when you carry an aid rack for a 60ft crack and plug every 3 feet, make sure you report that as well.

Lol.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
ViperScale wrote:Doesn't matter as long as you report it as top roping to the first bolt and leading the rest.
Does this mean if you don't preplace the draw you should report that you solo'd up to the first bolt and that every time you place a draw above your head you need to report that 2ft of top roping?
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

HA I am just Trolling you guys!

As far as breaking my legs, not gonna happen. Climbing for too long it's all i do, kind sad but true. This first bolt placed so high crap is BS. I have put up 100's of routes ground up, you can get to the first bolts on nearly all my routes without the need for a stick. Making a route that needs a stick is WE TODD DID Sofa King we todd did. It's all good! Climbing is all about the fun! But if knocking it down to no danger or no risk just doing moves rather than the thrill of climbing, is is diminished to just doing moves. kinda boring.

Climbing is dangerous lets keep it that way. Or just go stick clip away and go indoors.

This big talk about Sticks and hard climbing is silly If you can climb REAL 5.12 and up you do not need a stick EVER.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
Jeff constine wrote:HA I am just Trolling you guys! As far as breaking my legs, not gonna happen. Climbing for too long it's all i do, kind sad but true. This first bolt placed so high crap is BS. I have put up 100's of routes ground up, you can get to the first bolts on nearly all my routes without the need for a stick. Making a route that needs a stick is WE TODD DID Sofa King we todd did. It's all good! Climbing is all about the fun! But if knocking it down to no danger or no risk just doing moves rather than the thrill of climbing, is is diminished to just doing moves. kinda boring. Climbing is dangerous lets keep it that way. Or just go stick clip away and go indoors. This big talk about Sticks and hard climbing is silly If you can climb REAL 5.12 and up you do not need a stick EVER.
Uhh, you sound pretty sincere in your convictions for someone who is "haha, just TROLLING guys!"

I use a stickclip, often on sport routes as easy as 5.10. Can you please tell me a bit more about climbing REAL 5.12, though? I may be kind of confused.
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

If you are a solid climber with good all around climbing skills you do not need a STICK clip for any route ever. If you need one like a crutch for your safety you diminish the whole concept of the sport down to just doing moves. Boring! Climbing is not a safe pursuit. Never been happier getting scared, on a runout climb. Again if sticks are your thing enjoy. Bringing it down to your level all good! The legacy for climbing in your memories when you get old will be doing routes in poor style reducing it to all safe, no boldness, no risk, no adventure. Enjoy!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Jeff constine wrote:If you are a solid climber with good all around climbing skills you do not need a STICK clip for any route ever. If you need one like a crutch for your safety you diminish the whole concept of the sport down to just doing moves. Boring! Climbing is not a safe pursuit. Never been happier getting scared, on a runout climb. Again if sticks are your thing enjoy. Bringing it down to your level all good! The legacy for climbing in your memories when you get old will be doing routes in poor style reducing it to all safe, no boldness, no risk, no adventure. Enjoy!
Two words, Adam Ondra.
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Man, someone is getting all worked up and emotional for "just trolling," no? By the way, I've been climbing almost as long as you, and we had sticks back then, so no need to pin this on "kids today" when us, panty waisted sissies, have been around for at least three decades. :-)

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I thought sport climbing was suppose to be safe?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Bill Kirby wrote:I thought sport climbing was suppose to be safe?
It is.
The people arguing against stick clipping are one or more:
ignorant
have an adamant refusal to understand
have never climbed in an area where sticking the first bolt is expected
trying to apply trad style to sport climbing
have a deep misunderstanding of sport climbing
are trolling to rile up people
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
Jeff constine wrote:HA I am just Trolling you guys! As far as breaking my legs, not gonna happen. Climbing for too long it's all i do, kind sad but true. This first bolt placed so high crap is BS. I have put up 100's of routes ground up, you can get to the first bolts on nearly all my routes without the need for a stick. Making a route that needs a stick is WE TODD DID Sofa King we todd did. It's all good! Climbing is all about the fun! But if knocking it down to no danger or no risk just doing moves rather than the thrill of climbing, is is diminished to just doing moves. kinda boring. Climbing is dangerous lets keep it that way. Or just go stick clip away and go indoors. This big talk about Sticks and hard climbing is silly If you can climb REAL 5.12 and up you do not need a stick EVER.
I'm not sure you know what trolling is, because you actually seem to believe this inept drivel.

But wait, if I climb REAL 5.12, can I use a stick on say... 13c? Or will being able to climb REAL 5.12 magically pull me through?

And ummm... the gym is usually the one place you don't need a stick haha. Grandpa? Is that you? Do you have your robe on? Did you forget your meds again?

In all seriousness though, I'm an aspiring hardman. How long did it take you to achieve superterrificawesomebadassspraylord status? Sigh.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote: Does this mean if you don't preplace the draw you should report that you solo'd up to the first bolt and that every time you place a draw above your head you need to report that 2ft of top roping?
Naw that is still putting the draw and rope in on lead. If you are standing on the ground you didn't place it on lead than it is technically top rope. I never said anything was wrong with doing it, but it is technically top roping to first bolt if u clip the rope into the first bolt and don't clip everything on lead. I know 5.12 routes that the crux is at 12ft and the first bolt is at 15ft so I would never attempt it without having the rope setup on the first bolt.

Noone really cares how you climb as long as you just are honest about what you did. (well people may care if you are putting a bolt in every foot or cutting holds in the rock but we won't go there)

If you want to go with it is about pure climbing and being safe, than why not just top rope it?
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
ViperScale wrote: Naw that is still putting the draw and rope in on lead. If you are standing on the ground you didn't place it on lead than it is technically top rope. I never said anything was wrong with doing it, but it is technically top roping to first bolt if u clip the rope into the first bolt and don't clip everything on lead. I know 5.12 routes that the crux is at 12ft and the first bolt is at 15ft so I would never attempt it without having the rope setup on the first bolt. Noone really cares how you climb as long as you just are honest about what you did. (well people may care if you are putting a bolt in every foot or cutting holds in the rock but we won't go there)
LMAO.
Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205

To answer your question; No, I have never used a stick clip. However, about ten years ago, I watched someone use their stick (which was attached to his harness) and clip the third or fourth bolt on a climb at Golden Cliffs (Deck Chairs On the Titanic). I've actually had no interest in using a stick clip nor have I given it much thought except commenting on stick clip posts on climbingboulder.com such as here.

Perhaps we will eventually see a 100+FT telescoping stick clip that can be used to avoid clipping ALL bolts and clip those pesky quick draws directly to the top anchors..?? Imagine the possibilities!

-Cheers

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Shane Z wrote:To answer your question; No, I have never used a stick clip. However, about ten years ago, I watched someone use their stick (which was attached to his harness) and clip the third or fourth bolt on a climb at Golden Cliffs (Deck Chairs On the Titanic). I've actually had no interest in using a stick clip nor have I given it much thought except commenting on stick clip posts on climbingboulder.com such as here.
That's really not the point of a stick clip. Sure, some people use them to always have a top rope on a climb that is likely way over their ability or their initial foray into learning the moves on a route, but the primary purpose is for the intentional high first bolt over a bad landing.
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Not that anyone cares but back when I started climbing (in the early 80s) most sport routes were not set up to stick clip - first bolts were generally lower then. So we didn't use stick clips (well I didn't anyway). Not from some better than thou stance but it just wasn't really a thing back then. I'm not actually sure when it become the norm to install the first bolt deliberately higher with the assumption it would be stick clipped - probably very gradually until now it seems to be more common than not? I am reading the guide to Kalymnos (Greece) right now it it sounds as if it was developed with lower first bolts?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Chris Rice wrote:Not that anyone cares but back when I started climbing (in the early 80s) most sport routes were not set up to stick clip - first bolts were generally lower then. So we didn't use stick clips (well I didn't anyway). Not from some better than thou stance but it just wasn't really a thing back then. I'm not actually sure when it become the norm to install the first bolt deliberately higher with the assumption it would be stick clipped - probably very gradually until now it seems to be more common than not? I am reading the guide to Kalymnos (Greece) right now it it sounds as if it was developed with lower first bolts?
It really depends on the area. High first bolts are very common at Smith and the NRG. I've seen quite a number at the ORG, but probably not as prevalent as in other areas. At Skaha, it depends on landings and who developed the route.
Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205
Marc801 wrote: That's really not the point of a stick clip. Sure, some people use them to always have a top rope on a climb that is likely way over their ability or their initial foray into learning the moves on a route, but the primary purpose is for the intentional high first bolt over a bad landing.
Marc,

I understand the fundamental purpose of a stick clip, however, I was also describing how others use them in their climbing technique, which is carrying said stick clip on their harness and using them to clip bolts that are spaced too far apart(or not) in the middle of a well bolted and extremely popular sport route. I'm not belittling the use of stick clips (and the above mentioned technique), however, it's not for me. To each his own, which is fine.

-Cheers
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Shane Z wrote: Marc, I understand the fundamental purpose of a stick clip, however, I was also describing how others use them in their climbing technique, which is carrying said stick clip on their harness and using them to clip bolts that are spaced too far apart(or not) in the middle of a well bolted and extremely popular sport route. I'm not belittling the use of stick clips (and the above mentioned technique), however, it's not for me. To each his own, which is fine. -Cheers
We're basically in agreement. I use the stick for high first bolts (and if I can reach the second from the ground, why not?). If I'm finding that I want it on the pitch after that, then I really reassess why I'm on that particular route in the first place. There will usually be a leaver biner involved in the affair shortly after that reassessment.
Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205
Marc801 wrote: We're basically in agreement. I use the stick for high first bolts (and if I can reach the second from the ground, why not?). If I'm finding that I want it on the pitch after that, then I really reassess why I'm on that particular route in the first place. There will usually be a leaver biner involved in the affair shortly after that reassessment.
Understood. Based on the fact that I don't climb as much as I once did, and, I was never much of a sport climber to begin with, my use of the stick clip has been nil. Indeed, I have left my share of old biners on climbs that I bailed from due to fear, weather, difficulty of the crux, etc.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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