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Oklahoma
> Wichita Mountai…
> Charon's Gardens
> Lost Dome Region
> Lost Dome Main Area
Papa Was a Rolling Stone
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Lost Dome Main Area
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500 Roses S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Baptists on the Rampage S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Blades of Steel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Come and Get Your Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crack a Lo Lo T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dance Hall Girls T A3 |
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Drop Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dutchmen, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Fear of the Right T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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For A Rocker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gong Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La segunda esquina T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Rites T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lost Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost My Religion T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Made in the Shade S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Not So Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Papa Was a Rolling Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rap Bolters from Hell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Show Stopper TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slightly Lost T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slime of the Century S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Steep Show T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar Momma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thankful Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Turkey Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Tony Mayse |
| Page Views: | 882 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Nevius on Dec 28, 2016 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Start up the first 4 bolts of Come And Get Your Love (and past its crux), but instead of climbing past the last bolt (which could be clipped with a long runner) to the bolted anchor, traverse the 5.9 crack (#0.75 - #3 Camalots) left for about 30-40 feet then finish straight up when the crack ends. Gear anchor can be built using small cams (alien sizes). Hike off, or possibly walk around the boulder and rappel Come And Get Your Love
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