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Gary Stoker
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Aug 26, 2016
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Fort Belvoir, VA
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 215
Ya, funny thing one of the old timer ex guides there said he always wore double plastic boots , he said he always had problems with leather boots and feet problems. As Pete Whittaker told me, it took him 4 tries to get up Everest, made me feel a little better, lol
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Gary Stoker
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Dec 23, 2016
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Fort Belvoir, VA
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 215
Warbonnet and anyone who else is interested, I couldn't really find any papers on the topic online but from multiple websites and from the CWC study, this is what they came up with from their Dinwoody glacier study last year, they were suppose to do another trip there this year, but I'm not sure they were funded for it, nothing on their website about a study done this year. According to the school, nearly two meters of the upper surface of the Dinwoody Glacier had melted since the last expedition in mid-August 2014. So in about a years time. My next trip back to the winds won't be until either Feb of Next year or April 2018, after being in the Winds in July and August as well as Rainier in August, I'm most definitely a winter person, lol
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climbslc
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Jul 6, 2017
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SLC, UT
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 20
Bringing this thread back for updates on Gannet peak conditions. My son and I are planning a July 27 summit +/- a day or two depending on weather. We are planning to approach from Dubois on the glacier trail and I'm debating the rope and pickets vs no-rope scenarios in my head. Any information about snow conditions, the bergschrund/snow bridge situation or other beta would be much appreciated.
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RangerJ
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Jul 6, 2017
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 65
climbslc - You will definitely want some snow protection. If you're doing the Gooseneck conditions on the headwall can be anywhere from perfect neve to bullet hard ice. There are routes that don't require much snow/glacier travel, but they start from the west side. You should also know that there is a sign at the Trail Lake TH that says the Down's Fork bridge has been damaged by early season flooding. I don't know what kind of condition it is in, but you would have quite an adventure trying to cross the Down's Fork during high flows without it.
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climbslc
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Jul 7, 2017
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SLC, UT
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 20
My current thought is a 30m skimo rope and a picket each, plus a few biners, slings and prussik cord. Same setup as we took on Hood two weeks ago. It stayed in the packs but didn't weight too much I guess. Wasn't going to take screws or rock gear unless I hear conditions would require them. The bridge situation is news to me. I'll be looking into that and making sure its a go or else change to the Titcomb basin approach. Thanks Ranger!
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DavisMeschke Guillotine
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Jul 7, 2017
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Pinedale, WY
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 225
Bridge is most definitely out right now. Forest Service has to wait for water levels to drop before attempting to repair it. In regards to snow protection.... I have yet to climb Gannett with snow pro or a rope. This is all contigent to your comfortability with climbing snow. The only place on the route where I could imagine roping up would be the 200 ft Gooseneck Gully. 40-45 degree snow. I would say crampons and ice axe are mandatory, snow pro is optional. Still lots of snow right now. The freezing level is well above 15,000 ft at this point and we're seeing lots of water coming out of the mountains.
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Brian in SLC
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Jul 7, 2017
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Oct 2003
· Points: 21,711
DavisMeschke Guillotine wrote:BI have yet to climb Gannett with snow pro or a rope. This is all contigent to your comfortability with climbing snow. The only place on the route where I could imagine roping up would be the 200 ft Gooseneck Gully. 40-45 degree snow. I would say crampons and ice axe are mandatory, snow pro is optional. Still lots of snow right now. The freezing level is well above 15,000 ft at this point and we're seeing lots of water coming out of the mountains. Did it years ago and belayed the first three pitches on blue-ish water ice. Glad to have a rope and screws. Really depends on your experience level and comfort on that type of terrain, though. Heckuva long way from help if you screw up! Consolidated snow would make for a fun cruise. Folks we saw at Elkhart Park on the 4th were tooled up for snow climbing... We hiked up behind Boulder Lake last Monday...wow....that's a lot of water in the creek! Campground still out. Nutty.
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DavisMeschke Guillotine
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Jul 7, 2017
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Pinedale, WY
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 225
Brian in SLC wrote:Did it years ago and belayed the first three pitches on blue-ish water ice. Glad to have a rope and screws. Really depends on your experience level and comfort on that type of terrain, though. Heckuva long way from help if you screw up! Consolidated snow would make for a fun cruise. Folks we saw at Elkhart Park on the 4th were tooled up for snow climbing... We hiked up behind Boulder Lake last Monday...wow....that's a lot of water in the creek! Campground still out. Nutty. On the Gooseneck Route??!? crazy. I've hit alpine ice on the Southeast Couloir route in late summer/early fall but never in Gooseneck Gully. Climate change is really ripping the glaciers a new one (counted 4 moulins on the walk over Bonney Pass last summer).
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climbslc
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Jul 7, 2017
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SLC, UT
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 20
Easy to throw in some screws in the maybe pile and keep and ear out on the conditions. Was kinda hoping we were early enough in a big snow year that we would be unlikely to need em. And with the bridge out, I better formulate a plan for summiting over Bonney pass as we are less than 3 weeks from departure. Thanks for the feedback!
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Evan Christensen
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Jul 11, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 0
Thanks for the tip on the bridge. Talked to the ranger in Dubois and she said people are getting through, but a lot of water with some on either side
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Katie Moore-Drougas
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Jul 11, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 0
Has anyone been up to gannett this summer via titcomb basin to dinwoody pass?
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DavisMeschke Guillotine
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Jul 11, 2017
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Pinedale, WY
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 225
Katie Moore-Drougas wrote:Has anyone been up to gannett this summer via titcomb basin to dinwoody pass? Yes. Titcomb Lakes are frozen over completely as of a few days ago and there's snow starting at Seneca Lake; the outlet of Seneca was a bit spicy, but passable further upstream. The snow is nice and consolidated, obviously getting slushier as the day progresses. Went up Bonney Pass to have a look on the other side. Lots of snow; we're still 200% of average above 11,000 ft. Was not able to see the Gooseneck Gully, but the glacier was completely covered (and will be for a while), crevasses and all. Had a pretty nasty storm on Bonney Pass later in the afternoon that deposited an inch of wet snow. Still pretty full-on early spring conditions up high right now. Lots of sunshine and rain; the snow seems to be going fast.
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climbslc
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Jul 11, 2017
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SLC, UT
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 20
With our dates to climb Gannett locked in (7/26-8/1) due to work constraints, I'm having a hard time choosing the approach. We initially planned on Glacier, feeling like the extra distance would actually be fun and would set us up for a higher probability summit. With news of the bridge at Down's creek out and other stream-crossing-spiciness, we had turned our attention to Titcomb and Bonney pass. Now sounds like Titcomb is frozen and Glacier is doable... I guess we won't make a final decision until days before we leave. Any additional info from returning climbers will be much appreciated!
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DavisMeschke Guillotine
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Jul 11, 2017
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Pinedale, WY
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 225
climbslc wrote:With our dates to climb Gannett locked in (7/26-8/1) The Titcomb Basin approach will be fine by then.
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Brandon Emery
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Jul 17, 2017
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Custer, SD
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 25
Does anyone know anything about conditions in the Cirque right now??
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Katie Moore-Drougas
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Jul 17, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 0
DavisMeschke Guillotine wrote:Yes. Titcomb Lakes are frozen over completely as of a few days ago and there's snow starting at Seneca Lake; the outlet of Seneca was a bit spicy, but passable further upstream. The snow is nice and consolidated, obviously getting slushier as the day progresses. Went up Bonney Pass to have a look on the other side. Lots of snow; we're still 200% of average above 11,000 ft. Was not able to see the Gooseneck Gully, but the glacier was completely covered (and will be for a while), crevasses and all. Had a pretty nasty storm on Bonney Pass later in the afternoon that deposited an inch of wet snow. Still pretty full-on early spring conditions up high right now. Lots of sunshine and rain; the snow seems to be going fast. Thanks super helpful! One last question - do you have any thoughts on packing skis all the way in? I know its a trek, but my friend and I were thinking, with the snowpack, it might be worth it...
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DavisMeschke Guillotine
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Jul 17, 2017
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Pinedale, WY
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 225
Katie Moore-Drougas wrote:Thanks super helpful! One last question - do you have any thoughts on packing skis all the way in? I know its a trek, but my friend and I were thinking, with the snowpack, it might be worth it... It would only be worth it if you're going to do some skiing while you're there. If you're only taking them up there for travel, leave them behind. The snow is so well set up, that walking is easier than skinning. Shadier aspects are still skiing very well.... for mid-July.
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Katie Moore-Drougas
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Jul 18, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 0
Okay, good to know. We are definitely looking to get some skiing in if we can. We are headed up next week, but it sounds like there is potential for some good lines.
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climbslc
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Jul 20, 2017
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SLC, UT
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 20
Found this posted on Instagram (@307photos) from last weekend. Bridge looks fine for crossing. He has some other shots of the creeks along the glacier trail. Looks spicy but people are obviously making through.
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Ross Hokett
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Jul 21, 2017
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Great Falls, MT
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 266
Also wondering about snow conditions up at the cirque of towers? Anyone been up recently, hoping to go up there on Monday. Thanks
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