Why Hard Sport Climbing Is A Sham

EricL wrote:Luke nailed it. Vas is a wannabe Aleks Sebastian, sans the charm.

Well Eric, if you think making fun of people who do not speak English well is "charming" then I suppose you might enjoy gimmicky Aleks.

2 threads and you still haven't explained what a fucking micro take is

Jon Rhoderick wrote:2 threads and you still haven't explained what a fucking micro take is

Jon, this thread is not specifically about the micro take.

This thread is questioning why I've seen many "hardmen" not be able to onsight something that is almost 2 NUMBER GRADES below their "MAX GRADE".

You ask 2 questions, one of which includes micro taking. What the fuck is micro taking?

The microtake manifests itself in many forms, please see this thread for peoples examples.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/micro-take-culture-in-hard-sport-climbing/112342110__2

Show me a single video or picture of micro-taking happening by a 'big name pro'
I've read that thread and I still have no idea what the fuck your talking about. No one has fifis on their sport climbing harness, stepping on the rope is super obvious. Those are the only examples other people have offered. You, still have not offered anything.

If the micro take culture is ever prevalent, why is there zero evidence

Also name one 'big name pro' who can't onsight your project grade

Vas, where do you live? The level of climbing in the town I live in is extremely high, and all the pros I've watched train (it's Winter, so there are a lot of people training now) up close are the real deal. They're so far above my level of climbing, they may as well be partaking in a different past time. It's not clever editing to make a video, it's a lot of hard work.

I don't know if many people in the world are really onsighting 5.13 - that's something that takes a lot of work up front, even if it's not on the actual route.

:shrug:

Nivel Egres wrote: it supposedly took Adam Ondra a few tries too.

micro-took or full took?

I've micro-toked, which was sufficient for TRing, but honestly it lacked the robustness I prefer when leading anything of note.

Healyje wrote:I've micro-toked, which was sufficient for TRing, but honestly it lacked the robustness I prefer when leading anything of note.

this

Vas Carmicheal wrote: You must not climb very much if you haven't run into them, they literally climb all the time

Err, "literally" they do not!

Ted Pinson wrote:Onsighting and projecting are two different skills.

Pretty much THIS.

Personally I have no desire to project a climb. I'll try to onsight and most of the time it will stick. Sometimes I may fall, sometimes I may take, but for me it is about just doing a climb not about repetition.

Sure I'll never tick the hard stuff. But nor will I be bored repeating the same climb for hours, days, weeks or months on end...

My choice, my personality.

Honestly, I think the OP's assertions are just a micro-aggression against pro-climbers. Pro-climbers have long been a marginalized group, and the thought that they are being further marginalized by the suggestion of "micro-takes" offends me. The MP forums should be a "Safe Space" where pro-climbers can go, and not have their sends (or worldviews) challenged... #proclimberlivesmatter

Vas Carmicheal wrote: I've seen many "hardmen"

Taking words outta context makes me laugh.

So the joke here is that no one knows or will say what a "microtake" is? I'm sorry I wasted my time reading this.

climbing friend,

do you even troll?

What in the hell is a mirco-take in sport climbing?????????

Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, do you even troll?

This is why we need a like/upvote function.

Do the microfish heads work as well for recovery as the normal sized ones? I think it's a pretty central question to this thread.

3/10

Some people actually took this seriously.