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Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 70
votes
Routes in El Fin de Semana (Weekend Wall)
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A muerte en Mexico S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blade Runner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltergeist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Camino del Diablo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cosmic Intelligence S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fin de Semana S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hombre de Rifle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Maldito Lunes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mexican Guarantee S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Never on Friday S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prima Donna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Razor Blade Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Same Same But Different S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scavenger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sheba Shite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sketch Pad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Zuma Dog S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Craig & Silvia Luebben, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 3,443 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
This three-pitch route follows the striking dihedral on the edge of "El Fin".
P1 - 5.8 climb up low-angle terrain basically following the profile of the formation to a belay niche at the base of the dihedral. Alternatively, one can also climb Sheba Shite (5.9) or Same Same but Different (10c) to arrive at the same spot. (100 ft)
P2 - 10c follow bolts up the obvious dihedral, smearing and stemming for a sustained 100 ft. Belay at bolts on the right.
P3 - 5.9 follow broken and blocky terrain to the top of the fin. Follow the ridge-line for 15 feet and look for rap rings on the south (climber's right) side. Alternatively you can move slightly left just before reaching the south anchor to locate the anchor for Never Cry Wolf where you can set up a belay and rap back to the ground in one rap on a 70 meter rope with a little bit of 3 rd class downclimbing.
One double-rope rap will put you on the trail 100ft uphill from the start.
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