Lucy Goosey

In "The Whole Enchilada," Dane Bass writes that the 8 pitch classic Supernova, put up by Magic Ed and Bob Almond, "stops frustratingly short and doesn't go up the second headwall to the top." Not anymore! Lucy Goosey (named for the marvelous Lucy Lunsford, who graciously allowed some wedding funds to be diverted into bolting it) continues up and over the second headwall, through some beautiful, spikey hidden gardens and past stubby spires, and up a few more pitches to the tallest summit on the east side of the park (for now). The route starts in the obvious chimney at the base of the second headwall and heads straight up, trending slightly left.

***This route is still new. Expect loose rock on the upper pitches and heavy vegetation. Bring gloves and wear pants for the lower class pitches up high to make the summit bid more enjoyable. As with any new long route in the canyon, it will likely take several ascents to blaze a solid trail up the route. In the meantime, enjoy a true Potrero adventure up new terrain before it is tamed!***

Approach- From the summit of Supernova, 1st class hike to the obvious headwall at the back of the canyon.

Pitch 1- 5.10a. Stem up through the chimney, move out onto the slab early and continue up to the first set of anchors. 8 bolts, 28m.

Pitch 2- 5.10c. Move left off the anchors to the dihedral area and continue upward. 7 bolts, 26m.

Pitch 3- 5.10b. Harder moves off anchors ease up quickly. Anchors at the top serve as a rap sub-station, ensuring one can rap off with a 60m rope. 4 bolts, 12m.

Pitch 4- 5.9. Romp up through nice holds and good stances to a comfy belay spot. 11 bolts, 30m.

Pitch 5- 3rd class. Traverse around the slope adjacent to the wall. Protected by 2 bolts around the edge of the traverse to anchors which can be clipped to protect the scramble up to the ledge. There was a palm frond bivy on top of the ledge, which makes for a nice break spot/place to overnight for funsies... it may be in disrepair now. Follow the trail dotted with cairns to the base of the next pitch.

(NEW ALTERNATE)

Climb El Chupacabra (See MP Page) up the glorious, sun blasted headwall. 5.11C, two pitches (approach 5.7, bizness 5.11c). Once at the top, follow the fixed line up an absolutely epic ridge walk/scramble to the summit of Lucy Goosey. 

OR, less recommended due to erosion, but far easier ending...

Pitch 6- 5.7. Head up the obvious ramp, stemming in the corner up fun moves to the anchors. 8 bolts, 25m.

Pitch 7- 1st class hike to the base of next pitch. Follow trail and cairns through a garden of bleedin'.

Pitch 8- 5.10a. Easy start to a few hard moves to an easy finish. Follow the handline (installed 2/2020) up the scramble to the summit and register.

RAP BETA- NEW!!

You could rap the route the way you came, but what's the fun in doing what you already did!? For the adventurous, a canyoneering route has been established from the summit into Los Lobos Canyon. If you do Lucy Goosey up and the rap down, this makes a true Potrero adventure (and is the recommended descent, to avoid overlapping up and down parties). Not scared? Stoked? Ready to commit? Read on.

70m rope mandatory, be ready for shrubbery!

First rap from the summit, take the fixed line north and downslope to the rap station. Rap down pillar/rib feature/structure. Find rap rings on inside of pillar (rappelers left looking down, not super obvious spot but best long term location due to rock quality issues on the face). From there, move rappelers right to the ground, to the north of the pillar/rib you are belaying. Coil rope here and head down the faint but obvious talus trail (some bushwhacking involved). When the talus gives way to more steeply angled, sloping bedrock, you will find the next rap station. Two obvious palm trees frame this station when looking downslope. Rap down a bit of chaos here. From here, you are aiming for Los Lobos Canyon, though you will be heading into an untouched area of the potrero. It is beautiful in it's own right, and if you have seen much of the potrero you will know just how unique it is, as it is one of the few reliable water drainages in the area. Beware of blue millipedes and other creepy crawlies here. You are in a fragile ecosystem, so leave no trace but marvel in this (for now) untouched Potrero niche. The top of the 4th rap is up and on your left as you look down canyon. The 5th rap is an annoying hanging belay due to the rap being just a tad too long to make with a 70. From here, rap nearly to the end of the rope (knots!) and find the 6th and final rap. From here, you simply walk down Los Lobos, towards the closest margarita.

Completed in February, 2020.1/2 inch SS bolts. Route development supported by Climbtech and the American Alpine Club. Access to the summit will facilitate route development over TNT, Vatican, and untouched areas on the east side...