Minimal Competence Require to Climb Big Walls

Holy Shit!

This fall we were behind some guys who dropped two jugs down the Hollow flake, dropped a big cam and fixed a #5 in the Ear (the guy leading it sounded like he was having a baby). The next day so much gear rained down on us that we though for sure they would have to retreat. They continued after dropping two more jugs and a few water bottles (forcing them to climb all night to get to the top).

Mark Hudon wrote:Holy Shit! This fall we were behind some guys who dropped two jugs down the Hollow flake, dropped a big cam and fixed a #5 in the Ear (the guy leading it sounded like he was having a baby). The next day so much gear rained down on us that we though for sure they would have to retreat. They continued after dropping two more jugs and a few water bottles (forcing them to climb all night to get to the top).

Yes, it was crazy. It really was raining gear.

I got a lol out of this one Mark (not your misfortune, but the idea of aiding Hollow Flake).

Gumbies have to learn somewhere (just like we did), but popular routes with tons of moderate free climbing (ie Nose and Salathe) that competent parties are hoping to do fast are not the place to learn how to aid your way up pitches every other party frees. Especially these days when free climbing standards are so high.

PLENTY of one-two pitch routes at the Base of El Cap to practice aid in the winter for those California based. Base of El Cap in Winter can be very pleasant climbing. Practice *wide* before the Salathe esp. You are really ready for Hollow Flake when Mid Term, Sacherer Cracker, La Cosita Left, Moby Dick left and maybe Chingando are doable (for a short list off the top of my head) etc...Valley 5.9-easy 10a wide, no harder required...5.10b wide can be a horror show...(Ahab...*shudder*...). But your first experience on wide should not be Hollow Flake. And if doing some of the newbie wide circuit seems horrible, you do not belong on the Salathe.

Do the first pitch or two of any valley wall/crack for aid practice in off season. Just not in high season. That is when a considerate person is not clogging up things more competent people have been getting ready for years to do. Perfect practice for Salathe would be left side of Moby Dick then the first couple pitches of the Muir Wall (C2+) then rap.

El Cap east side routes are awesome in the Winter too with the chrome drops coming down. Perfect chance to check out the first 2 pitches of Zodiac (you can rap from the top of the second pitch). Steep experience is useful and more pumpy than lower angle stuff. Really helps you learn efficiency on lead/expose your technique climbing and following.

Hope you ticked Free Rider. :)

Good post from King Tut.

Interesting Mark. There's a lot said for people who start Building anchors for top roping. Then start Free Climbing single pitch routes. Then start climbing Multipitch routes. Then start climbing a little in the alpine. Then start French Freeing a little. Then start clean aid climbing. Then start aid climbing a few moves to get past hard multi pitch free moves. Then start aid climbing whole pitches. Then start aid climbing multi pitch climbs. Then Big wall aid climbing. Personally I feel like i am free climbing even when standing in Aiders, sometimes. I think it took me 6 hours or so on my first Aid pitch on a wall? Didn't even finish it. Had to go up the next morning and finish it.

Another thing i stated thinking about, is starting to get in the frame of mind that big wall climbing can be like very light weight backpacking. Instead of bringing can food maybe bring dry food. Maybe bring a more expensive lighter sleeping bag. OZ's. turn into lbs. quick. Start thinking in those terms. Or use speed climbing tactics, not to climb to the top in a day, but to make it to the next bivy ledge before dark, and leave the porta ledge behind. (Of course, never skimp on water!, That's just plain stupid.) I always bring one gallon per person per a day. If that's to much, drink more at the beginning of the route, and the bags will get lighter quicker. Plus, if you have all your water in big bottles, it's harder to keep drinking on a wall. I count how many pitches the wall is and bring that many very small bottles X 2 (one more partner) and always have a bottle hanging from my harness. Ok, I am ranting now.