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Anyone up for some climbing in Palo Duro Cayon on Dec 6-7

Original Post
M. Johnson · · Moab, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 50

I'll be headed throgh the Amarillo area on Tuesday, Dec 6. If I can find a partner for Palo Duro, I'd be willing to stay for a couple days on my way down to Dallas. I have ropes, full trad rack and sport rack. Would consider climbing with someone as long as you can belay and you promise not to drop me. Thanks for looking.

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067
M. Johnson wrote:I'll be headed throgh the Amarillo area on Tuesday, Dec 6. If I can find a partner for Palo Duro, I'd be willing to stay for a couple days on my way down to Dallas. I have ropes, full trad rack and sport rack. Would consider climbing with someone as long as you can belay and you promise not to drop me. Thanks for looking.
I used to live there and put up a few of the routes. I won't be in the area then, but would be happy to point you in the right direction. I'd post on this page if looking for a partner facebook.com/amarillo.house…

Have fun! Also, just know that the canyon isn't fantastic rock, the routes are short, and it will definitely be an adventure. Would love to give you beta if helpful.
M. Johnson · · Moab, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 50

Much appreciate the beta dear sir. Will do, thank you! And I might hit you up for some more beta if I find a partner... Also, last time I was there, the lighthouse looked climbable. does it have chains or a place to sling?

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067

I hope you can find someone! The bouldering there is better than the trad routes. With anything, please just don't climb within a few days of a rain. We've had a lot of classic boulder problems and projects ruined when the key hold/jug got ripped off. Old Red is the best trad climb in the canyon, but like everything else it is short doesn't go to the top, and doesn't have anchors making it really contrived. Warpath is decent good too.

M. Johnson wrote:Also, last time I was there, the lighthouse looked climbable. does it have chains or a place to sling?
Beyond the fact that it is illegal, climbing the Lighthouse would certainly add irreversible damage to a local icon. The tower itself is made of no more than dirt. When it was climbed, the first ascentionist hammered a ladder of 3' long home made pitons all the way to the top. The P1 anchor (1 pieces of rebar and an american death triangle with some kind of hemp rope) and either flag or anchor is still visible, but not in any kind of usable condition. I believe the first ascent party defended via helicopter.

Here is a link to an interview with the first ascentionist
The Lighthouse Palo Duro Canyon
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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