The Hidden Staircase
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | TR Sharon + Ken Roberts |
Page Views: | 699 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | kenr on Nov 19, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Loose rocks small and big (including a known big loose one a bit more then halfway up lying flat on a ledge), slippery lichen and moss on rock surfaces. Not ready for "prime time". Only for parties with a desire and knowledge to safely detect and remove loose rock and clean rock surface.
More interesting than it looks.
Grab two side-pulls and haul up onto the obvious ramp.
. . Variation easier start: Walk on ledge and ground eight to the end of the dark ledge and the bottom of the ramp.
Diagonal Left up ramp to its end, with perhaps some moves above the ramp. Next step Left, then finish up face which is to the Right of big R-facing corner.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
More interesting than it looks.
Grab two side-pulls and haul up onto the obvious ramp.
. . Variation easier start: Walk on ledge and ground eight to the end of the dark ledge and the bottom of the ramp.
Diagonal Left up ramp to its end, with perhaps some moves above the ramp. Next step Left, then finish up face which is to the Right of big R-facing corner.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
15 ft right from arete on R side of giant roof. About 4-5ft left from R end of obvious dark horizontal ledge (with perched 2.5ft-wide block) indented into face.
- - > See on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
Protection
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Adventure Stories sector.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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