Gore Range Technical Routes

Looking for info on quality Gore Range technical routes. Yes, there is a lot of crappy rock in the Gore, but also some really good stuff as well. Any folks out there have any favorites?

I've heard of a 8 pitch 5.7+ on the North Face of Peak C. FA Cam Burns.

Amir- Beyond the stuff that OB does? I've heard the route on Pk C is good. In the cirque south of the Trident (aka Pk Q?) is a cool tower. I'm forgetting the name, but Lauren Peritz and I did a FRA on that in 03. two pitches, 5.6R. There's a bit more potential in that area. The prominent crack on the north side of Eyrie Ridge in S. Rock Crk goes at 5.10, three pitches (excellent rock). The Fly in Upper Piney has a variety of routes on it. LP and I did a 5 pitch 5.6ish thing, and I remember old OB folks telling me of 5.7-8ish routes on it. I'll try and dig up my old maps in the next few days. I marked down anything worth coming back for, not that I ever have...

David Thanks. Scott, good to hear from you. Thanks! This summer I want to do an in depth exploration of the gore. I know there is some more F.A. potential. If you happen to swing back this way, we will have to head in.

Amir

Unlikely, but ya never know. Dude, just pack a double rack and 10 days food into S. Rock and work your way north. You'll figure it out. The other image that comes to mind is the buttress that splits the two forks of N Rock. Rob and Kendra did an FA on that a few years back, but he was a little withholding of details...

I've heard reports of a guide book that was written for the Gore Range many, many years ago. Supposedly there is/was a copy in the Boulder public library. Might be worth looking for, if only to see what's been done.

@ Massey:
Yes that was a fun couple pitches. Pogo pinnacle? Maybe better to get OB students to pack in the 10 days of food and ropes...

There is a ton of potential in the Gore. On the backside of Valhalla, there are a number of super cool, clean lines up Thor (SE side) and Freya. I personally would love to see a line up Capricorn's hatchet face north side (Zodiacs). E. Thorn has a couple big N ridge lines. Rain has a prominent NW buttress that looks similar to Sneffles' N Buttress. Grand Traverse has a cool traversing snow climb up the N side, N Ridge of Peak W, the 300-ft vertical face on the NE ridge of W Partner, 500-ft lines on the SE side of Q, the NE lines up the prominent Spider...

Camster hit perhaps the biggest and steepest face around on Pk C.

It was wet when we climbed it. In fact, we were up there three days and it never really stopped raining. But it's a cool looking face. I can't say the climbing was that great.....

"Mountaineering in the Gore Range, a Record of Explorations, Climbs, Routes, and Names,"
by Joseph D. Kramarsic, copyright 1989.

I bought a copy directly from the author, whose address c. 2006 was:
Box 1342
Dillon, CO 80435

This guidebook mostly lists Class 2 -4 routes, but there is a 'Northwest Ridge' on Peak C, just listed as Class 5.

^We did the NW Ridge a ~5 years back at around 5.4 and my partner added it here. There are a few cool spots.

I have Kramarsic's guide and it is very interesting; however, it does not list many technical routes.