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good recommendation on steel caribiners for running lots of laps.

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wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Looking for a good option for a steel non locking carabiner to use on the rope side of two of my quickdraws for days when I am doing a lot of TR laps after the rope is up on a sport route. Have been getting out almost daily lately so I've been wearing my aluminum carabiners pretty good as well as turning my rope black.

Looking at a set of two of of the tango blue steel draws, but am open to any other suggestions. Mainly just want two draws set up with steel on the rope side for routes that I plan to run a lot of laps on.

Also looked at the petzl Dijinn steel caribniners, but it looks like I need to buy 10 at a minimum.

http://www.backcountry.com/trango-blue-steel-quickdraw?skid=TRG001W-X001-Y001&ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6Y2FyYWJpbmVyczo2OjM5OmNhcmFiaW5lcnM=

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I think any of the steel carabiners will be just fine, but why don't you want lockers? A little added safety for your top rope draws.

Although I have a few different brands of steel lockers, here's one of them:

metoliusclimbing.com/steel-…

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
wisam wrote:Looking for a good option for a steel non locking carabiner to use on the rope side of two of my quickdraws for days when I am doing a lot of TR laps after the rope is up on a sport route. Have been getting out almost daily lately so I've been wearing my aluminum carabiners pretty good as well as turning my rope black. Looking at a set of two of of the tango blue steel draws, but am open to any other suggestions. Mainly just want two draws set up with steel on the rope side for routes that I plan to run a lot of laps on. Also looked at the petzl Dijinn steel caribniners, but it looks like I need to buy 10 at a minimum. backcountry.com/trango-blue…
I have the steel djinns for this purpose. The reason I went with them is because they are the lightest steel biner on the market and I always use them as my top anchors, so I haul them up a lot of sport routes. I just went with the 10 pack and replaced some of the biners on permadraws at my local crag. Another good option if you're okay with something slightly heavier is the trango steel wiregates, they are the least expensive steel biner I have found and they clip really well.
Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

I have Mammut key lock steel on the rope side for the anchors. They work great. The Djinn's look pretty sweet too.

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,867

+1 for Petzl Djinn

Cypher also makes a nice steel carabiner, but its kinda hard to track down.

BrendanN · · New London, CT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 164

Anyone know where to get single Djinn steel bent gates? If the 10 pack is the only option, anyone interested in splitting an order? I figure each carabiner is about $7.50 and could be shipped in packs of 2 for around $3-5, coming to about $20 for just 2 carabiners. If it sounds worth it, I would need 4 other people to go in on a 10 pack with me.

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,867

Suggestion- buy the 10 pack, use what you need, hang on to the rest and distribute them as needed. Not sure how much you climb, where you climb, etc., but the community always needs another person setting a good example by changing out lowering biners or other fixed gear. This is a just a good way of paying it forward and setting a great example of how to be a climbing steward. Someone will notice and follow the trend.

BrendanN · · New London, CT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 164

Luke, it's a good idea, but I don't climb too often, and definitely not at the level where fixed draws are needed. But maybe I can afford to hang on to all 10 and eventually have a use for the other 8 or a good place to donate them.

EDIT: also, does anyone recommend the Petzl Oxan ( amzn.com/B003O9VKNK )?

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

if you're willing to wait a bit, edelrid is coming out with aluminum biners with steel inserts on the high-wear areas. That would certainly be lighter than dragging up regular steel biners.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
eli poss wrote:if you're willing to wait a bit, edelrid is coming out with aluminum biners with steel inserts on the high-wear areas. That would certainly be lighter than dragging up regular steel biners.
Those already exist. Some via ferrata carabiners have that feature. Several companies make them.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

It's great using steel for your toprope anchors all of the time. It will cut down on aluminum oxide on your ropes and leave your hands less grimy.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

I don't mind waiting for the eldered ones. Any guess on when they hit the market?

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Would go in on the group buy but Imagine that we would end up loosing too much money on shipping by the time we shipped to all 4 people.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
BrendanN wrote: EDIT: also, does anyone recommend the Petzl Oxan ( amzn.com/B003O9VKNK )?
Yeah, I've used them, they work well, the locking mechanism is really smooth, but they weigh a ton, it feels like you have a brick hanging off of your harness with one of those.
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

A pair of draws with steel lockers are what I asked for and received for mother's day!

I'm sorry I can't tell you specifically what, but I'm pretty sure my son just went to REI and got four lockers and two longish, stiff dogbones. These are our rig for top rope, once the rope gun leads up there.

Being a bit longer, and not floppy, I also have something to use for a bit of aid, in a pinch.

These things might last longer than I do, so go with what you really want.

Best, H.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

We have about 50 of these Liberty Mountain Screwgate Ovals in service for our canyoneering trips. Thousands of rappels with wet, sandy ropes an no viable wear. Inexpensive ($7) and bomber.
libertymountain.com/product…

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
FrankPS wrote:I think any of the steel carabiners will be just fine, but why don't you want lockers? A little added safety for your top rope draws.
Because lockers aren't necessary?

Plenty of climbers used 2 quickdraws for their top rope anchor - no lockers there. And, AFAIK, no one has died due to using 2 quickdraws for their TR anchor.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Khoi wrote: Because lockers aren't necessary? Plenty of climbers used 2 quickdraws for their top rope anchor - no lockers there. And, AFAIK, no one has died due to using 2 quickdraws for their TR anchor.
I never said they were "necessary." Not really worth quibbling about, so carry on...
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

The best toprope setup is one locker and one non so that if that pinkpointer want to hit it, they are not foiled by the lockerz.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
eli poss wrote:if you're willing to wait a bit, edelrid is coming out with aluminum biners with steel inserts on the high-wear areas. That would certainly be lighter than dragging up regular steel biners.
They are ridiculous 14 euros each!! You can get the kong ergo for less and it's arguably more draw.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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