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Routes in Mustang Wall
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Burros Gone Wild T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dragon, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mustang Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pegasus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rube Goldberg, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,416 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Arin F on Aug 27, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Most of this was taken from the latest edition of the "Red Rocks - A Climber's Guide II. I've also climbed the route and added more beta. The route climbs a crack and corner system in the center of a triangle shaped wall of varnish.
P1 - Scramble up blocky terrain to a short right facing corner.Climb the cracks on the right to a pine tree. Continue up over a couple of walls and fight some shrubbery until you reach the base of the crack/corner. Either build an anchor in the crack at the base of the start of pitch 2 or belay from a bolted anchor 10 feet to the right. 90' 5.6
P2 - Climb the long crack through a pod to a bolted anchor at the base of a prominent black corner. The crux of this pitch is the first 8 feet. 90' 5.9
P3 - Make some thin and reach moves up the corner and then move out right along a rail and climb the easy face on good edges. Move back left to a bolted anchor when nearing the top. Crux of this pitch is the first 15 feet. 80' 5.10d
Variation: climb the corner directly to the anchor. Been TR'd 5.11d
P4 - Climb the corner to a bolted anchor. Use the arete when it gets thin and then move back into the corner. 70' 5.10c
Descent: It is possible to rap the route with a single 70m rope. I would imagine a single 60 m will get you down safe as well
P1 - Scramble up blocky terrain to a short right facing corner.Climb the cracks on the right to a pine tree. Continue up over a couple of walls and fight some shrubbery until you reach the base of the crack/corner. Either build an anchor in the crack at the base of the start of pitch 2 or belay from a bolted anchor 10 feet to the right. 90' 5.6
P2 - Climb the long crack through a pod to a bolted anchor at the base of a prominent black corner. The crux of this pitch is the first 8 feet. 90' 5.9
P3 - Make some thin and reach moves up the corner and then move out right along a rail and climb the easy face on good edges. Move back left to a bolted anchor when nearing the top. Crux of this pitch is the first 15 feet. 80' 5.10d
Variation: climb the corner directly to the anchor. Been TR'd 5.11d
P4 - Climb the corner to a bolted anchor. Use the arete when it gets thin and then move back into the corner. 70' 5.10c
Descent: It is possible to rap the route with a single 70m rope. I would imagine a single 60 m will get you down safe as well
Location
The only negative aspect of this route might be the long approach. Make a day of it and climb some of the other routes to the left on the The Monument.
Right hand side of the gully to the right of The Monument. From the Black Velvet parking area, head towards The Monument. Stay low and skirt the monument until you reach the far right side. You will see a gully just to the right of The Monument. Head up this gully to the base of a triangular wall of varnish. Start directly below a tree that appears to be at the base of a crack system. There is a good picture of the fourth pitch on page 40 of the Handren guide book (2nd edition).
Right hand side of the gully to the right of The Monument. From the Black Velvet parking area, head towards The Monument. Stay low and skirt the monument until you reach the far right side. You will see a gully just to the right of The Monument. Head up this gully to the base of a triangular wall of varnish. Start directly below a tree that appears to be at the base of a crack system. There is a good picture of the fourth pitch on page 40 of the Handren guide book (2nd edition).
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