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Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Hold
Id# 112279847, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Oct 31, 2016
Yeah there isn't much left. Definitely changes up the climb a bit.
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Milford, NH
Nov 1, 2016
Troy -what is your thought on its grade with this missing (or greatly diminshed) hold. I'd say at least its solid V7 or V7+

This was a fairly key hold and while the sequence still goes albeit changed, the crimping is much more sustained.....
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Nov 1, 2016
All the moves still go, there's an alternate sequence that is basically short person beta that keeps the beginning sequence for Maxim probably not any harder.
By Tyler Moody
Nov 1, 2016
I did the beginning of Maxim after the hold broke with the following sequence: pull on, go left hand to a gaston that is a few inches to the right and below the broken hold, move your right foot, then go right hand to one of the crimps in the small rail shown at the right side of this photo. From there, pick up the usual sequence (you can match the crimp rail if necessary).

These moves felt on-par with the difficulty of the rest of Maxim and more consistent in style - instead of a big reach to a good edge, the new start is a few technical moves on small holds.

Crimping on the remains of the broken hold would definitely up the grade if you want a harder sequence.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 1, 2016
I used the same beta as Tyler. As long as you don't try and crimp on the remains of the broken hold I'd say the grade for Maxim is V7- and High Tech Issues V9- just a slightly different opening sequence.
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Milford, NH
Nov 1, 2016
Yeah I agree with your comments, thanks for the input guys. Its great to see a classic line stay true to its standard.
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Broken Hold

Submitted By: Jason Scott Heacock on Oct 31, 2016
On this route:
Maxim (V7- 7A+ )
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