Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Charles Cole, Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira (1981)
Page Views: 1,846 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tyler Wick on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Face climb using a diagonal seam to gain the deep, flaring, and sustained hand crack. It is possible to climb the crack as an OW if you stay toward the outside of the crack.

To descend, scramble to climber's left (north) into the notch where Gunks West and Lumping Fat Jennie end. There is usually a rappel station setup here from a large slung boulder. 

Alternately, you can scramble further left to reach the bolted rap anchors of Leaping Leaner. Make one 5.0 move in a short crack (perfect hand jam, nice foothold, stand up) to gain the ledge at the top of Leaping Leaner. If you somehow slipped from this trivial move, you'd go about four feet and land on the big ledge. Rappel from the Leaping Leaner anchor with a single rope. 

Location Suggest change

This route is located to the right of Gunks West at the obvious, left-leaning, flared crack that is near the right side of the formation.

Protection Suggest change

Carry small to big hand-sized cams. BD .75-3. Extra 2-3 inch cams work for the anchor.

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