Wichita Mountains camping/climbing

I'm new to this part of the country and hoping to check out the Wichita Mountains over the weekend. What is the camping situation like up there? Is it all organized campgrounds or is there any dispersed car camping options? I'm not big on crowds or being around RVs and am wondering how busy it gets over the weekends. Since I'm going in blind, any information on the area would be greatly appreciated.

I believe camping is first come first serve in the park except for the group camp sites. When we have been there the camp groups have been quiet and peaceful but YMMV. The crags have never been over run but there are always other climbers there. IIRC only Echo Dome has bolts the rest is trad and there are a few multi-pitch climbs near The Narrows.

Should be nice weather this weekend and I know that the Texas Mountaineers will be at one of the group camp sites.

Thank you for that information. It gives me a better idea as to what to expect. Is there any dispersed camping in the area at all?

There is some dispersed camping in Charon Gardens. If you're primary goal is climbing it's an added complication though. They want you to be a long way (can't remember the exact requirement) from the road.

I recall once being asked to move (spot light and bull horn) for being set up too close. So be prepared for an hour or so hike in and out to comply.

Yup, looks like there is in Charon's Garden Wilderness Area but we have only climbed in that area as beginners so can't provide beta for higher end routes.

https://www.fws.gov/refuge/Wichita_Mountains/activities/camp/backcountry.html

txclimber - That is good to know about Charon Gardens and the close policing of camping there...you may have saved me from that unpleasant wakeup call. I understand why they have to do that, though.

Blakevan - Thank you, again. That looks like a nice area to backpack into at some point. And I am getting back to climbing after an injury and the move here where it has been unbearably hot until now, so I will be looking at easier routes to start with.

For car camping you have two good options: Lake latonka and Camp Doris.

Doris is closer to Charons Gardens, nicer, cleaner, sometimes noisy but not usually. Even though it's s campground, it feels more "out there" than latonka. It's in the refuge, so alcohol isn't allowed. You will have to pay.

Latonka is like some kind of city park. If you drive down the dirt road past the RV spots it is pretty damn "dispersed" and undeveloped. It is usually quiet, though I have seen a party once. There is lots of trash around. Someone comes around sometimes to collect fees. I bet I've camped there 50 times and paid once. This is closer to Mt Scott climbing.

If you're new to the region check out Texas Mountaineers. Climbing season is about to begin down here and it would be a great way to meet a lot of the locals.

There is a good mix of old school and millennials in the crowd and a lot of the guys organize trips to Red Rocks and other places.

texasmountaineers.org/

Michele, have you been in the Boulder area recently? If so, I think it's safe to compare the granite in the Wichita Mountains to some parts of Boulder Canyon. I have only climbed there once driving up from Austin. The campgrounds are super Nazis about bringing in alcohol (forbidden) and they even stop cars to check. It's a pain. We got our beer confiscated and had to pay a fine on the spot that was about $60.

The only routes I recall climbing were Kerplunk and Crazy Alice, both of which were pretty good. We did climb on Mt. Scott another day, but nothing comes to mind as being outstanding. The swimming hole nearby was great, however. And of course the large herds of buffalo are neat to see.

C. Archibald - Thank you for the additional information. That paints a more clear picture as to what to expect and what to aim for. And I will definitely avoid Latonka.

Stich - I left Boulder at the beginning of summer. Those alcohol checks sound bizarre, but I'm guessing there is a reason for that. And after the past few months stuck in AC with nothing but concrete and flatland all around, I will be overjoyed just to be in a natural area where there is rock!

Blakevan wrote:If you're new to the region check out Texas Mountaineers. Climbing season is about to begin down here and it would be a great way to meet a lot of the locals. There is a good mix of old school and millennials in the crowd and a lot of the guys organize trips to Red Rocks and other places. texasmountaineers.org/

I am glad that there are other climbers here. Thank you for that link.

Michele Beaty wrote:...Those alcohol checks sound bizarre, but I'm guessing there is a reason for that. And after the past few months stuck in AC with nothing but concrete and flatland all around, I will be overjoyed just to be in a natural area where there is rock!

The reason for the alcohol checks is that Oklahoma is firmly lodged in the Bible Belt. But you will indeed enjoy the rock out there, and hopefully you can get in some swimming before it gets cold. There was a fairly good restaurant near the swimming hole as I recall, too. Enjoy!

I've spent weeks out in the Tas and I've never been confronted by rangers about alcohol at camp Doris Stich. As long as you're not loud and obnoxious past dark (and obviously drinking), nobody will bother. Camping at Doris fills up fast.

If you're looking for food go into Medicine Park and check out the riverside cafe, or head into Meers and get a Meers burger (cash only).

WMWR is Federal not State land so any rules come out of Washington DC not Oklahoma City.

They do have a very cool place there called The Holy City of the Wichitas and the history, again Federal not State, is interesting.

theholycitylawton.com/

Nothing like hearing the story of baby Jesus told with an Oklahoma draw.

Medicine Park has all the alcohol you need. :)

Thanks, this all helps. My goal this first time up there is to get to know the area, check out the climbs, and breath some fresh air! Is it generally safe to camp there alone during the week?

Stich - I'm technically in the Bible Belt and have never seen such enthusiasm for drinking. Even the Whole Foods market has a bar in it and people walk around grocery shopping with glasses of wine in their hands.

Sorry, I haven't been there on a week day so not sure what is around. I bet the biggest risk besides climbing are the buffalo or snakes. YMMV

I'm fine with the wildlife, it's the people I'm wondering about. I'm heading there right now to get familiar with the area. Hoping it will be a good escape from the concrete prison that is Dallas!

Have fun. It's a pretty cool place, but unlike someone above suggested, it's nothing at all like Eldo. Not in scale, rock type, climbing style, or any other way I can think of. Prepare for something a little more like Joshua Tree. Granite, with big crystals. Lot's of domes and slabs.

There is one small area called the Narrows that is a little different from the rest of the refuge. I suppose you could squint and bang your head a few times and say it was Eldo-ish, but that's still a stretch. More like a miniature version of Mill Creek in the La Sals. Single pitch cragging with a creek in a narrow canyon.

Michele, please post your impressions of the place I would like to hear what you think about it.

I headed up there on Friday and found all of the campsites were full. Apparently, it's fall break for the schools in this part of the country, which was news to me. Despite that, it was easy to find some space and scramble around on the rock in Charons Garden without encountering anyone else.

txclimber, you described it well. The rock is characteristic of the granite in some parts of Joshua Tree. I had no illusions of it being anything like Lumpy Ridge or Eldo. The area is beautiful in its own right and I am looking forward to spending a lot more time there and climbing all that rock. I didn't make it to check out the Narrows this time, but will the next. And whatever Holy City is, it was closed on Sunday...strange, very strange.

Holy City is just a place they do The Great Passion Play but not sure if that is only around Easter or year around. I believe there is a gift shop open during the day.

If you get time this winter also check out Reimers Ranch near Austin as well as Enchanted Rock (e-rock) North of Fredericksburg.

Reimers Ranch is mostly sport climbing and you can camp at Rock Dog (someone front yard) for like $5 a night. Rock Dog is about 2 miles from the park and not too far from Hamilton Pool and other cool places. Skip anything on the Green Belt unless you like crowded polished walls.

E-rock is mostly old school trad and the park is mostly hikers and day trippers that have nothing to do with climbing. Camping in the park is noisy and hard to get. Oxford Ranch camping is cheap and about 1/2 hr North of the park.

The rest of the good climbing around here that I know about is in Arkansas.