Ondra on the Dawn Wall

Yes, NIAD, on his first visit to the valley and within a week or so after arrival.

He's treating the holy valley just like a regular day in his local crag. :-)

NIAD?

Ted Pinson wrote:NIAD?

Ted Pinson ^^^^^

Nose In A Day... as in under 24 hours elapsed time

Any bloke with perseverance and basic wall skills (and enough water) can camp their way up the Nose, but a "test" of skill and endurance is the NIAD, as you have to have all the normal skills to get up the route, plus the efficiency and endurance to do so in less than 24 hours.

As I referred to above, it has become quite a fad in the Valley over the last couple of years to see how fast you can NIAD. Through a succession of climbs from the ground to Sickle, from the Ground to Dolt, from the ground to El Cap Tower, parties are dialing in all those lower pitches so that they know all the pitches by heart, all the gear placements, just how light of a rack they can be comfortable with, etc... I was in the Valley for 5 weeks and on the daily there were parties doing Dolt runs, etc... up to full NIADs. In the end it comes down to how quickly you can pull on gear and do all the rope systems and shenanigans... something that so far hasn't seemed attractive to me personally although i do admire the efficiency and endurance it requires.

Ah, yes. Didn't Honnold set that record?

Honnold and Hans Florine, yes. Around two and a half hours... Which is insane no matter how you climb it

USBRIT wrote: Yes but the Nose FA did not top rope ..it was on sight with relatively primitive gear ... no jumars for a start.Plus the original Dawn Wall guys did not come down for cocktails ... Adventure and endurance (even if it is aid) is just if not as equal to working a route to death which as we see still uses aid techniques .

We're talking Dawn Wall not Nose. Two majorly different routes. Pay attention lad.

oh sorry I forgot 200 yards right of the nose makes it so they can't be compared.

climbing friend,

climbing friend ondra his arms are not meaty enough, his frame is not meaty enough, and he is not his constitution hardy enough. he may only invert himself and thrust up single pitch cave, screaming all the while like angry songbird.

crakatoa wrote: Warren Harding sure as fuck came down for cocktails on his F.A of the nose.. sooooo

USBRIT wrote: ??? Warren Harding had nothing to do with the FA of The Nose.

USBRIT wrote: ??? Warren Harding had nothing to do with the FA of The Nose. Lets not forget if was not for the aid climbers all or most of these free ascents of EL Cap would be impossible as for example with the likes of the Dawn Wall they would be NO protection .

crakatoa wrote: What???? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warre…(climber)

USBRIT wrote: Just pulling your leg ... Its the Dawn Wall that is the topic.

• You* are the one who keeps comparing the Dawn to the Nose.

I had really high expectations for ondra, so I guess I've been a little disappointed with his approach so far.

He has the potential to do truly historic things in the valley, but he seems to be on a frantic attempt to try a bunch of different things in a compressed amount of time.

I think that most of the people who have unsuccessfully tried to free the nose in the past could do more or less what ondra did yesterday--- onsight everything, but fail at the great roof and changing corners pitches. After all, the rest of the climbing is 5.10-5.11, with some 5.12 sprinkled in.

I still give him a 50% chance of onsighting the salathe...

mpech wrote:...but he seems to be on a frantic attempt to try a bunch of different things in a compressed amount of time.

mpech wrote:I had really high expectations for ondra, so I guess I've been a little disappointed with his approach so far. He has the potential to do truly historic things in the valley, but he seems to be on a frantic attempt to try a bunch of different things in a compressed amount of time.

patto wrote: So he is behaving like a normal person. Jumping on climbs and enjoying themselves. Why does he have to do something historic? Why are you disappointed in his approach? Can't the guy just enjoy spending time climbing with his Dad?