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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
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Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tri Tip T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wax Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wax Cracks Extension (Open Project) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Rose of Texas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Ken Dog & Co. |
| Page Views: | 1,930 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | George Daniel Urioste on Oct 14, 2016 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1: Climb 5.7 chimney for 90 feet, passing 2 pro bolts, to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on a ledge. Walk west along this ledge, tunneling under the big chockstone. In about 200 feet there is a chimney/gully with a varnished face above it. Belay here.
Pitch 2: Climb the chimney/gully to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on the face to the right (5.7, 80 feet). This station is a recommended rap station, but is an optional belay station, since it can be bypassed and this pitch can be combined with the next pitch, if desired.
Pitch 3: Step right and climb delicate ramp to a pro bolt. Now go up to left-facing corner system which leads to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station (5.9, 100 feet)
Pitch 4: Step right and climb crack to base of big chimney where there is a 2-bolt belay station which can be bypassed on the rappels. (5.7, 60 feet)
Pitch 5: Climb offwidth crack (5.10d) through big roof at the base of the chimney. A sequence of one or two #3 Camalots, one #4, one #5, and one #6 provide good pro until over the roof. The crack continues to be wide (5.10a) up to the 2-bolt hanging belay/rap station, so another #3, #4, and #5 may be useful. (120 feet, 5.10d)
Pitch 6: Surmount small, exposed roof with jam crack, then go straight up via slick face and small cracks to a small comfortable ledge with a 3-bolt belay/rap station. There are 3 pro bolts on the upper portion of this pitch. (160 feet, 5.10a/b, sustained)
Pitch 7: Go straight up from belay, following a crack in the exposed arête, which leads into a right-facing, right-slanting V-shaped crux corner with ultra-slick black varnish on its right-hand side. Tiny pro is possible here. A delicate traverse leads to the right side of the white overhang, after which a stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap station is reached. (140 feet, 5.10d/5.11a)
Pitch 8: Go straight up double cracks which are steep, varnished, and incipient. Step right and follow parallel thin cracks to a roof, above which easier climbing leads up and left to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station. (130 feet, 5.9)
Pitch 2: Climb the chimney/gully to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on the face to the right (5.7, 80 feet). This station is a recommended rap station, but is an optional belay station, since it can be bypassed and this pitch can be combined with the next pitch, if desired.
Pitch 3: Step right and climb delicate ramp to a pro bolt. Now go up to left-facing corner system which leads to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station (5.9, 100 feet)
Pitch 4: Step right and climb crack to base of big chimney where there is a 2-bolt belay station which can be bypassed on the rappels. (5.7, 60 feet)
Pitch 5: Climb offwidth crack (5.10d) through big roof at the base of the chimney. A sequence of one or two #3 Camalots, one #4, one #5, and one #6 provide good pro until over the roof. The crack continues to be wide (5.10a) up to the 2-bolt hanging belay/rap station, so another #3, #4, and #5 may be useful. (120 feet, 5.10d)
Pitch 6: Surmount small, exposed roof with jam crack, then go straight up via slick face and small cracks to a small comfortable ledge with a 3-bolt belay/rap station. There are 3 pro bolts on the upper portion of this pitch. (160 feet, 5.10a/b, sustained)
Pitch 7: Go straight up from belay, following a crack in the exposed arête, which leads into a right-facing, right-slanting V-shaped crux corner with ultra-slick black varnish on its right-hand side. Tiny pro is possible here. A delicate traverse leads to the right side of the white overhang, after which a stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap station is reached. (140 feet, 5.10d/5.11a)
Pitch 8: Go straight up double cracks which are steep, varnished, and incipient. Step right and follow parallel thin cracks to a roof, above which easier climbing leads up and left to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station. (130 feet, 5.9)
Location
Location: Climb the first 4 pitches of Twixt Cradle and Stone, to the base of the big chimney: Location of Twixt Cradle and Stone: This route lies on the North Face of West Velvet Peak, a couple hundred feet to the right of the major gully that lies just right of the Texas Tower area, but several hundred feet to the left of Great Expectations. Begin in the left-facing corner/chimney about a hundred feet to the right of Epinephrine.
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