Standard Route - Lower Slabs (Left Variant)

All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Crawford Notch > Mt Willard > 03. Main Slab > Standard Route - Left… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R)

Standard Route - Lower Slabs (Left Variant)

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Photo#14 - P7 S Matz climbs up the slab, then will traverse right to the "ugly corner".

Photo#3 - RW on "ramp/ledge" after the P3 traverse of Cinema Gully

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Robert Hall

Oct 14, 2016

“Standard Route - Lower Slabs (Left Variant)”

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Standard Route - Upper Tier ("upper wall") the 1929 Route. "XX" marks the spot where I believe the photo of P8 that is in Yankee Rock and Ice was taken." (? Perhaps as part of an exploratory mission looking for a safer / better route than P7 ? !)

Mt Willard - Standard Route (Left Variant on Lower Slabs) "XX" marks the spot where I believe the photo of P8 that is in Yankee Rock and Ice was taken.

Photo#9 - Pitch 6 the long pitch up to the Big Tree Ledge and top of the Cinema Gully ice route

Photo#14 - P7 S Matz climbs up the slab, then will traverse right to the "ugly corner".

Standard Route - Lower Slabs (Left Variant)

Photo#3 - RW on "ramp/ledge" after the P3 traverse of Cinema Gully

Photo#23 - RW in the corner, start of P10

Photo#16 - The "ugly corner" on P7, "up close and personal"

Photo#$20 - Ancient 1930's-40's era pitons on our P8. Probably pitons marking the belay stance with 1930's-era ropes.

Photo#5 - Belay at the end of P3 (in the "groove/crack")

Photo#19 - K Winkler on P8

Photo#11 - After climbing scree slope, go Up-and-Left along this wall, keep close to the wall.

Photo#4 - 1950's piton in Cinema Gully on the P3 traverse

Photo#22 - RW moves right at bottom of P9

Photo#21 - SM & RW following P8 They are at the approx level of the ancient pitons, on the technical crux of the route. The climbers "cavorting about" unroped in the photo in Yankee Rock and Ice are HERE !

Photo#18 - Close-up of corner

Photo#8 - S Matz making the traverse on P5

Photo#26 - Near the top of P10 and the climb.

Photo#24 - Looking up at P10 from the top of the "dirty corner". Photo is foreshortened; there's only 6 ft between the two pieces of "protection"...the bottom sling is attached to..[see photo 25]

Photo#13 - SM and RW finish the "hike" with this roped scramble up the final scree slope above the 5.0-5.2 slab to the belay trees.

Photo#12 - the 5.0-5.2 slab, note belayer above in the Oak trees on the left

Photo#10 - Let the high-angle hike begin! We will traverse to the right beneath the slab in center photo

Photo#6 - 1970's-80's 1/4" bolt on P4

Photo#25 - Bottom sling is attached to this 1930's-50's era piton. Some "pro"! [Driven up-side-down no less !]

Photo#17 - S Matz in the corner. Compare to the 1930's-40's B&W photo on page 30 of the 1st ed. of "Yankee Rock and Ice" (realizing the B&W was taken from a higher perspective) Same Corner!

Photo#2 - S Matz on the P2 traverse while RW smiles for the camera

Photo#7 - Looking up at P4 from just beyond the P3 belay stance

Photo#15 - 1930's-50's piton in traverse to the "ugly corner"

Photo#1 - START of Std (and "Hugos")

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