Creek Anchors

Hey folks,

Now that the season is upon us I'm just looking to compile a list of Creek routes that could use an anchor update.

If you would be so kind as to dredge up memories of what routes might need some attention and what kind of hardware they need that would be rad!

Thanks,
Sam

Looked like Twitch could use an update. Chain and possibly another bolt.

...why not glue-ins? That sandstone is soft and deteriorates with moisture.

Just asking. I've only used glue-ins for stuff that soft.

Steve's Wimpout at Pistol Whipped could use an update. Last I remember the anchor was an old 1/4-er and a drilled angle? Also the anchor on Cocked at Pistol Whipped could use some chain to replace the webbing currently up there.

I think we could use a few bolts on Incredible Hand Crack. #2 cams are getting tipped out from wear and tear. #3's are just too heavy.

Ball wrote:...why not glue-ins? That sandstone is soft and deteriorates with moisture. Just asking. I've only used glue-ins for stuff that soft.

The new bolts going in are either SS 1/2" Legacy bolts, SS 5/8" sleeve bolts or some 8" SS Glue ins. Often in the Creek glue ins are tricky without dedicating time to come back after the glue is set to remove the anchor you lower off of or waiting the requisite time to let the epoxy set so they're not always an easy option but I do think that's the way of the future!

Sam Feuerborn wrote: The new bolts going in are either SS 1/2" Legacy bolts, SS 5/8" sleeve bolts or some 8" SS Glue ins. Often in the Creek glue ins are tricky without dedicating time to come back after the glue is set to remove the anchor you lower off of or waiting the requisite time to let the epoxy set so they're not always an easy option but I do think that's the way of the future!

First time I used glue-ins it was 90° and the damn stuff set too quick! I thin it was HY 150, which is a quick set.

For sure some glues are faster setting than others, and they are heat dependent. I last used foil packs but can't comment on how quickly they set.

Ball wrote: First time I used glue-ins it was 90° and the damn stuff set too quick! I thin it was HY 150, which is a quick set. For sure some glues are faster setting than others, and they are heat dependent. I last used foil packs but can't comment on how quickly they set.

To be fair setting up and curing are very different things...

Demolition at The Fin is tat with one link hanging from two good but old bolts. Could use chain.

Too Much Cake needs an update. Currently, the anchor is a SH hanger on one bolt and two hangers-less bolts all equalized with fairly fresh webbing.

Thanks Brandon!