AAC craggin classic 2016 Devil's Lake

Sean Peter wrote: You don't need a bouldering guide - you've got MP!!1!! (from the North Shore page) Drive past the North Shore ranger station, continue directly ahead until you cross the railroad tracks then turn right. Follow this road to the third parking area (on top of a small hill) and park. From the middle of the lot walk across the road to the east into the woods (on a faint trail) for about 50 feet. One will walk right into Jameson Arete and Emily's Naptime. Happy Cranking.

Just asking here: I doubt very many trad climbers, rope use climbers, know of many or maybe ANY bouldering areas that are posted here on MP for the interest of boulderers. I have never sought out bouldering at the park, just trad leads and toprope classics; enough to keep me more than busy for over 40 years climbing up there. Tossing out those boulders as a meetup place raises question to me, a trad climber. Is this entire event about bouldering, and focused on bouldering, and seen in the minds of the organizers (who maybe mostly boulder), as an event that is about bouldering. I have no interest in it, but I have nothing against it. Just wonder how the focus sort of fell by 'default' to bouldering location as the terminology is missing from most guide books I've ever seen in print. That's all.

Steves copied post above states that better directions (for those who don't boulder or who haven't been to the park) would be provided later this week.

Since it was asked now, the north shore boulders are: enter north shore and go past the main parking towards the railroad tracks (east) and park in one of the outlying lots towards the trailhead for the east bluff trail. The comp registration will be there and will be obvious. If you wish to park in the main parking lot that's cool too, just walk east for like a minute and you will arrive at the same location.

Look for more detailed instructions later in the week.

I think they picked a bouldering site as it is right next to a large parking lot. All of the rope climbing areas are not next to a large parking lot, they are all a 15 minute or more walk from an easy place to all meet.

I think the South Shore or CCC parking lots would have been the more obvious starting/registration point for the trad comp, given where all the routes are. Not a big deal anyway.

Well, it is a meeting place for both trad and "other" comp and lots of parking is needed.

Woodchuck ATC wrote: Just asking here: I doubt very many trad climbers, rope use climbers, know of many or maybe ANY bouldering areas that are posted here on MP for the interest of boulderers. I have never sought out bouldering at the park, just trad leads and toprope classics; enough to keep me more than busy for over 40 years climbing up there. Tossing out those boulders as a meetup place raises question to me, a trad climber. Is this entire event about bouldering, and focused on bouldering, and seen in the minds of the organizers (who maybe mostly boulder), as an event that is about bouldering. I have no interest in it, but I have nothing against it. Just wonder how the focus sort of fell by 'default' to bouldering location as the terminology is missing from most guide books I've ever seen in print. That's all.

For those asking why we chose the North Shore area, here is our thought process:

1 - You have to pass through a ranger station to get there and since there will be a lot of people coming from out of town/out of state this makes things easy and simple in regards to purchasing a parks pass.

2 - There's a ton of parking in the immediate vicinity, with 4-5 large lots within a 2-3 minute walk.

3 - We have access to a very large lawn area to run registration, check in and awards for 100-150 climbers.

4 - CCC would be better location wise for the trad comp but would be exceptionally limited in space on an October weekend during the Craggin' Classic.

5 - IMPORTANT!!!!!! There is still a chance that we might run registration for the Trad comp at the South Shore Beach but then run awards at North Shore so that everyone can be together there. The WCA is meeting tonight to decide some of those details and we'll update everyone here.

The last thing the WCA wants to come across as is bouldering focused. Our board members do boulder a lot, but they've also climbed Devil's Tower, El Cap, Half Dome, all over the Tetons, countless sketchy routes in the Black Hills and so much else that can't fit into this paragraph. To be totally honest, I'm more excited to see the turnout and excitement from the trad comp than the bouldering comps.

For what its worth I googled "Trad Climbing Competition" and the only other one I found was held in Siberia(no joke). We're looking to create something new, fun and community driven and I hope that people don't get frustrated with the last minute changes that we were forced into making this year. Keep in mind that one week ago we were still planning on running registration, check in and awards at Green Valley.

I truly can't wait to see everyone this weekend!!!

So the post comp awards and all will be held, celebrated and announced at this spot; not part of the wrap up on Saturday night entertainment over at Green Valley it sounds. Can you guess a time if we wanted to jump over there to see the final awards given, us non competitors? I'm guessing it will be done long before we are'due' back at GV for the Saturday dinner, entertainment, etc. and before it gets dark.

Woodchuck, both comps end at 5:00pm, so if you show up around then you should be good. Thanks, and see you there!

Tks for clarification so we know where and when to be there.

Update for everyone here: We're keeping an eye on the weather and it's changing even more rapidly than it was a couple weeks ago!! We're holding out hope that we'll still be able to do both comps this Saturday but we're hoping to make a final decision later today. Keep an eye out.

Registration for the bouldering competition will take place at the North Shore. Look for the Adidas EZ UP.

Registration for the Trad comp will take place at the South Shore beach. Keep an eye out for an un-logo'd EZ UP with a WCA banner.

Awards will take place at the North Shore around 5:30 with all scorecards needing to be turned in by 5:00 to avoid a penalty. We'd love it if non competitors came by to check awards out and joined us! There will be a raffle with some amazing prizes so bring some cash as all proceeds go towards the Wisconsin Climber's Association.

Your best bet for the most up to date info is to go to the WCA's Facebook page here

Now lets all take a deep breath and hope for no rain...

• ******UPDATE!!!! Due to wet conditions at the Lake we are moving the comp to Sunday. Please spread the word to everyone you know that is planning on coming. *******

Was like 'Woodstock' at GV' in the mud for 3 days. Guess it rained everywhere as I got home today and found 3.8 inches in the rain gauge in back yard! This is not our usual cool and dry fall climbing weather. Hope the comps turned out OK today for those involved. Will watch for updates and finals results posted somewhere this week.

Yes, it is quite unfortunate to have bad weather this weekend. The bouldering comp was canceled for sure. And I believe the trad comp was canceled as well. I'm not sure if the WCA are planning to reschedule them.
I think it'd be great to have tshirts saying "I survived the Muddy Craggin Classics 2016 at DL." It was an adventure trying to get my car out of the deep muddy landslide.

So they didn't climb on Sunday either? Found 3.8 inches in rain gauge back here at home from last 4 days. Guess they all got whacked with big rains.
When I came back to GV about 11AM, I couldn't believe how much more mud there was than when I left at 10PM last night..what a total mess it was throughout the campground and event areas!

The Self Rescue Class on Saturday with James was great, even with the rain! Props to everyone pitching in to get everyone else unstuck! I havent been that muddy in a long time.

MattyMo wrote:Was only able to swing up for the rescue class on Saturday, but still had a great time. Special thanks to James for pulling me out of the mud, hahaha!

Max Rieg wrote:The Self Rescue Class on Saturday with James was great, even with the rain! Props to everyone pitching in to get everyone else unstuck! I havent been that muddy in a long time.

Thanks for the love guys, Bill & I had a blast teaching it. It was a great group - the existing skills and knowledge you all brought to the table made life pretty easy for both of us!

So when you self-rescue a car out of Green Valley, do you use a munter-mule?

Doug Hemken wrote:So when you self-rescue a car out of Green Valley, do you use a munter-mule?

On the farm,,,I'd guess just a good old strong mule could pull the car as good as it can pull a wagon into town to the general store.

Forgot to post a couple pics from the fun. Wish I had taken close up of the mud at its worst late Sat. night.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Wish I had taken close up of the mud

Here you go! Good to meet you briefly at the Wildside booth Fri night. Thanks Nick and everyone for a great time. A little rain never hurt no one!