Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress
|
All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Pine Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Sometimes Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | First TR Pete Cleveland ? First Lead: Tommy Deutchler |
| Page Views: | 5,051 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Mar 23, 2003 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Do you want to lead a 5.12 at the Lake? I'm talking about a "real" 5.12--not some obscure short climb at Horse Rampart or some corner over at Sandstone. I'm talking about hard moves, tricky pro and mandatory runouts in groundfall territory. I'm talking about a 5.12 that is a hair's breadth away from the mythical routes like Bagatelle whose leads only live in the memory of a few crazed souls. Yeah, you guessed it, I'm talking about going All the Way.
As with all 5.12 leads at DL, the stories about All the Way abound. Of course there was Deutchler's first ascent, which I didn't witness (I was two years old), but which I imagine taking place with a bunch of DLFAers sitting around, saying "Whoa man, that was groovy." Tommy's ascent did pave the way for other groundbreaking ascents of the era, Bagatelle included. Then there's the time that Zschiesche headed up the climb with no gear, and asked bystanders to throw him up the needed pieces. This technique never seemed to catch on, as the hassle I'm sure outweighed any weight savings. And finally, there was the time when I punted off the start crux moves, crashed into the arms of my spotters and may have broken, or seriously sprained, the finger of one willing spotter.
To start the climb, locate the funky corner to the right of Congratulations. Climbing from the ground to the obvious hourglass hold presents the crux of the route. I thought it felt about V6, but I used spotters and crashpads, so feel free to judge me as not a true trad climber. There is no real pro until you stick the hourglass hold. Once you stick the hold, however, you must steel yourself for some heady climbing to reach the belay ledge of The Pedestal. This section feels 5.11ish, and you pass a welcome horizontal that offers a good rest and some nice pro. Above the horizontal, a small stopper protects the final hard move, which is just tenuous enough to keep your attention as you reach The Pedestal ledge.
I'm not sure how the original route finished, but I like to think that Deutchler forged straight up the wall above The Pedestal ledge. On my lead, I tried to stay true to the line and I headed up steep rock above the ledge up to the long-forgotten mini-route called The Trick. This 5.8 wall is a harder ending to Lower Diagonal, and in my eyes, is the natural ending to All the Way. Climbing on that upper wall, I think I felt the "real" Devil's Lake 5.12 lead experience--moving up beautiful 5.8 high above your gear, but feeling solid and psyched because you've already passed the crux below. You did it, going All the Way to the top.
As with all 5.12 leads at DL, the stories about All the Way abound. Of course there was Deutchler's first ascent, which I didn't witness (I was two years old), but which I imagine taking place with a bunch of DLFAers sitting around, saying "Whoa man, that was groovy." Tommy's ascent did pave the way for other groundbreaking ascents of the era, Bagatelle included. Then there's the time that Zschiesche headed up the climb with no gear, and asked bystanders to throw him up the needed pieces. This technique never seemed to catch on, as the hassle I'm sure outweighed any weight savings. And finally, there was the time when I punted off the start crux moves, crashed into the arms of my spotters and may have broken, or seriously sprained, the finger of one willing spotter.
To start the climb, locate the funky corner to the right of Congratulations. Climbing from the ground to the obvious hourglass hold presents the crux of the route. I thought it felt about V6, but I used spotters and crashpads, so feel free to judge me as not a true trad climber. There is no real pro until you stick the hourglass hold. Once you stick the hold, however, you must steel yourself for some heady climbing to reach the belay ledge of The Pedestal. This section feels 5.11ish, and you pass a welcome horizontal that offers a good rest and some nice pro. Above the horizontal, a small stopper protects the final hard move, which is just tenuous enough to keep your attention as you reach The Pedestal ledge.
I'm not sure how the original route finished, but I like to think that Deutchler forged straight up the wall above The Pedestal ledge. On my lead, I tried to stay true to the line and I headed up steep rock above the ledge up to the long-forgotten mini-route called The Trick. This 5.8 wall is a harder ending to Lower Diagonal, and in my eyes, is the natural ending to All the Way. Climbing on that upper wall, I think I felt the "real" Devil's Lake 5.12 lead experience--moving up beautiful 5.8 high above your gear, but feeling solid and psyched because you've already passed the crux below. You did it, going All the Way to the top.
16 Comments