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Routes in Mill Creek Dome
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Cross Cut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Features on a Landscape S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fractals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fractals Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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MargaSukha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pegarlo S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Power Shot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Power Stripper, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ram T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sita T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Yogi's Choice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | RMWright, Dr. ABS, Spring 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,306 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
PS comes out of the cave 30 feet right of FOAL and can be done as a single 90ft pitch or linked up with P2 of FOAL. Originally it seemed pretty hard, but in running it on RP, it seemed to land somewhere in the 5.11 domain. Sprint up on mostly big jugs in very steep terrain for 40 feet. I thought the crux was pulling past the fourth clip, which felt pretty commiting at this angle and catches you at the same time the flash pump hits. There is another crux pulling over the roof, but this is super well protected. This lower section reminded me of Rifle for the angle and the jugs. The slab after the roof comes in at 5.9 and has a couple neat moves that keep you thinking. It is possible to climb FOAL and place the draws on PS on the way down.
For the sake of running the rope past the roof and up the slab, it seemed like a good idea to have the belayer unclip the first bolt. PS starts with a traverse that could set up rope drag once on the slab above.
For the sake of running the rope past the roof and up the slab, it seemed like a good idea to have the belayer unclip the first bolt. PS starts with a traverse that could set up rope drag once on the slab above.
Protection
Eleven QDs and a 60 meter rope. The double bolt anchor is shared with P1 of FOAL. We found that a blue LinkCam was a comforting addition between bolts 4 and 5 that made things a lot less spooky.
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