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Double rope rappel and two rope rappel -- are they talking about the same thing?

Original Post
Shingo Yanoshta · · Charlotte · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Hi,

I have a question. Double rope rappel and two rope rappel -- are they talking about the same thing?

I am looking at a two pith trad route introduced on this site. The route says P1 bolts are hangers and no recommend using them for a single rope rappelling to the ground as the edge of hangers damages a rope. Then it says a two rope rappelling.

Does it mean using two ropes? But I don't understand how I should use two ropes. I tried to google the way but couldn't find any, instead I found a double rope rappelling. But a double rope rappelling is rappel using two strands of a rope, isn't it? Then what does it mean by the two rope rappel?

I do appreciate if somebody solve my puzzle..

Thanks!!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Shingo,

Do you have an experienced partner to climb with, or are you learning on your own? I highly recommend having an experienced partner to help you understand climbing concepts.

That said, post a link to the route.

A "double-rope rappel" is two ropes tied together for a longer rappel. A "two-rope rappel" is most likely a double rope rappel, but is not a term I hear used.

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow · · Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Oh boy...

Yeah, don't turn to the internet for this. Hire a guide. Get an experienced partner. And you should under no circumstances be leading multi-pitch trad routes. Please be safe.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Most bolt hangers are made of fairly thin metal, and will cut (or partly cut) a rope that is threaded straight through them under a body weight load. The thin edges also make it difficult to impossible to pull the rope after rappelling. The usual solution is to attach carabiners, quick links or chains to the bolts and thread the rope through them. Whatever is attached to the bolt stays there when you are done with the rappel.

Some bolts are designed to allow people to thread a rappel line straight through them. They are made of thicker metal and the edges of the hanger are shaped to allow the rope to be pulled through smoothly, and to avoid damaging the rope.

Post a link to the route, maybe the original description will make things a little clearer.

If you haven't already done so, please get professional instruction or find an experienced partner to learn from (or better yet, do both).Trying to work things out on your own has its place in climbing, but it can also get you killed.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Double rope rappel - rappelling on two strands of rope (i.e. both strands go through the rappel device). Could be a single rope doubled over or two ropes tied together. Though most would assume two ropes.

Two rope rappel - a rappel that requires two ropes (i.e. a single rope doubled over is not long enough to reach the ground). One may or may not rappel on both strands. I.e. one might use a thin tag line as the pull line which would not go through the rappel device.

For the OP it sounds like the while there are bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch but only hangers so they should not be used for rappelling. However, the second pitch is set up for rappelling but you will need two ropes to make it to the ground. Anymore anchor that this only hangers is rare. Surprised that someone has not installed some quick links.

Note: threading a rope directly through a hanger will not likely cut a rope but it can damage it. Not recommended. If one every needs to rap and there is only a hanger leave a biner or a piece of webbing. Note: if one is 1/3 of a rope length from the ground there are tricks to rap from a hanger and not leave any gear.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Allen Sanderson wrote:Note: threading a rope directly through a hanger will not likely cut a rope but it can damage it.
If you are actually able to pull the rope down.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

From the sounds of it (although like everyone else find someone who knows what they are doing) it is a 2 pitch climb. There is a set of 2 bolts halfway up aka pitch 1.

Pitch 1 likely doesn't have rap rings so rappelling off this pitch is a bad idea.

To rappel off of the very top (pitch 2) will require 2 ropes tried together to make it to the ground.

So think of this getto diagram below

  • (final anchor can rappel safely)
| 100ft
  • (middle anchor cannot rappel but can setup an anchor for going up)
| 100ft

You really have a few choices to get down
A) Tie 2 ropes together and rappel to the ground and than pull the rope side with the knot (knots won't normally go through rap ring)
B) Rappel on a single rope from top to the middle anchor, pull the rope down once you are on the middle anchor, setup a rappel again with your own biners since there is no rap rings (this means leaving 2 biners on the middle anchor behind)
C) Walk off from the top (if one exist?)
D) Single rope full length rappel (this means you will have to anchor the only rope you have to the very top anchor and will not be able to get it back.

Also things to consider... What length of rope do you need? Some areas may require 2 60m ropes to get down, some may require 1 70 or 2 60m to get down, some may need 2 70m to get down etc. Always tie knots at the bottom of your ropes because I know more than one area with 2 60m ropes you almost rap off the end to get to the next anchor.
Drew Gunderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow wrote: Oh boy... Yeah, don't turn to the internet for this. Hire a guide. Get an experienced partner. And you should under no circumstances be leading multi-pitch trad routes. Please be safe.

Wow, a both diminishing and unhelpful comment! Honestly the discrepancy is worth talking about, whether they are a novice or not.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
Drew Gunderson wrote:

Wow, a both diminishing and unhelpful comment! Honestly the discrepancy is worth talking about, whether they are a novice or not.

Well, they've had four years to talk about it

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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