All Locations > W Virginia > Eastern WV > Devil's Nose

North East Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North East Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alluring Fire TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bleeding Heart Notch TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chilly Pepper Ledge TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dragon Jaws TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Radical Fun Times T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wandering Around the Block TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wave Crest TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	878 ft
GPS:	39.60882, -78.11299 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,283 total · 46/month
Shared By:	John Kelbel on Sep 21, 2016
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Ray Weber Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This area contains some spectacular rock reaching upwards to seventy one feet tall, and also some other sections that need a lot trundling of loose rock. The North East area is below the first two main overlooks and extends into the Grand Corridor, a fifteen foot wide chimney. Although this area is mainly facing east, routs continue around and into the West face of the Grand Corridor, which is the side that is slightly overhanging. Below is the area division photo

Area Subdivision Map and trails

Two Notes of Caution
With this area being under the main overlooks and also containing some loose rock in some sections helmets are encouraged even when top roping.
Precautions must be taken when top roping from the main overlook which is off the end of a ten foot roof. The hazard here is a twenty foot tall rock fin standing behind the main wall, due to the large roof a fall off the lower main wall can result in a seriously hard swing into the rock fin. To solve this issue the rope needs to be redirected by gear under the lower roof.

Getting There

The base of the rock can be approach from either end of the area. At the North end immediately when the main trail turns to rock there is a narrow short gulley along side the rock. This climber’s access then turns left away from the rock shortly followed by a u-turn back toward the base of the rock and descends down a steep slope.
On the far end of the area, a more risky approach would be to scramble down the Grand Corridor at a climbing level of about 5.1 this steep gulley will contain slippery leaves and pine needles, to be used at your own discretion. Note the base of the wall resides on a shelf, and some sections do contain another vertical drop of about twenty feet or so.