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Rock Climbing Photo: This might be the notorious 5.8 squeeze section on...
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By Andrey Poletayev
May 30, 2017
If you have very long arms, there is a 0.5 placement deep inside the crack in this photo, but the overall chimney is too wide for a #5.
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This might be the notorious 5.8 squeeze section on the last pitch that you can only protect if you lug a #5 cam up the route. We didn't find it nearly as terrifying as the comments made it out to be. It is indeed unprotectable if you don't have a #5, but it is also 5.8. The #5 was not needed anywhere else on the route. After this section, the actual route as per the SuperTopo goes left at the tree and up a 5.8 chimney that is out of view, but Ryan forgot this and continued up the direct line into the chimney above. This is labeled as the "dirty chimney" on Clint's drawing on this SuperTopo post. The chimney was actually pretty decent 5.8ish climbing underneath the dirt and it made for a nice direct line to the top.

Submitted By: Steph Abegg on Sep 15, 2016
On this route:
Northeast Buttress (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 )
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