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Hook, Line and Sinker
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 21
votes
Routes in Upper Fin
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Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Finagle Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lateral Fin, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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License To Poach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips, Pat & Kristen Bardsley 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,417 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Sep 13, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This newish addition to the Fin is a great intro to Fin climbing. The first 3 pitches can be escaped from and rappelled to the base of harder south facing Fin routes, perhaps providing a warm up for those of us who need it.
P1- From the start of the scramble of the Fin there is a diorite face to the left (north). A pin and a few bolts will lead up to a dihedral. Ramble up this to a large shelf with a 2 bolt belay above. 9+/10a
P2- Slab up the wonderful scoop clipping bolts to a featured chimney, step right at the top to a 2 bolt belay and GREAT belay stance. 5.9
P3- Pad up perfect granite clipping a lone bolt to the anchor. 5.5 (from this anchor shuffle out right (up canyon) to a stance and a two bolt belay. You can run this together, but its a bit of route finding that may elude you on your first round.
P4- Slab up the impeccable Fin rock making a few committing moves and step left to the anchor and a nice shelf. 5.10b (it is possible to escape to the Fin Arete at bolt 2)
Alt- Climb up from belay and clip bolt out right and regain the Fin Arete
P5- Slab up passing a pin in the dihedral. Near the top you'll encounter featured rock and a bolt or two. Ramble up the low angle dihedral aiming for a 2 bolt belay and another great stance
P6- Climb up a thin crack to beautiful rock and wonderful movement. This pitch spits you out on the namesake of the feature of the entire formation. Don't forget to find a small TCU up on the arete, your second will thank you.
Descent: Standard Fin gully descent if topping out. It is possible to rap back to the base using two ropes from the 4th pitch.
P1- From the start of the scramble of the Fin there is a diorite face to the left (north). A pin and a few bolts will lead up to a dihedral. Ramble up this to a large shelf with a 2 bolt belay above. 9+/10a
P2- Slab up the wonderful scoop clipping bolts to a featured chimney, step right at the top to a 2 bolt belay and GREAT belay stance. 5.9
P3- Pad up perfect granite clipping a lone bolt to the anchor. 5.5 (from this anchor shuffle out right (up canyon) to a stance and a two bolt belay. You can run this together, but its a bit of route finding that may elude you on your first round.
P4- Slab up the impeccable Fin rock making a few committing moves and step left to the anchor and a nice shelf. 5.10b (it is possible to escape to the Fin Arete at bolt 2)
Alt- Climb up from belay and clip bolt out right and regain the Fin Arete
P5- Slab up passing a pin in the dihedral. Near the top you'll encounter featured rock and a bolt or two. Ramble up the low angle dihedral aiming for a 2 bolt belay and another great stance
P6- Climb up a thin crack to beautiful rock and wonderful movement. This pitch spits you out on the namesake of the feature of the entire formation. Don't forget to find a small TCU up on the arete, your second will thank you.
Descent: Standard Fin gully descent if topping out. It is possible to rap back to the base using two ropes from the 4th pitch.
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