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Elevation: 5,706 ft
GPS: 44.0802, -107.30329
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,697 total · 54/month
Shared By: David HH on Jul 26, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Most of the limestone we climb on in Ten Sleep Canyon is Big Horn Dolomite and the Madison tends to be chossy and crumbly. This boulder however, is an absolute stellar chunk of Madison limestone sitting in the forest. This is a great area in the summer since the sun really doesn't come around until late afternoon. Routes are all very good, climbing is juggy and overhanging, makes you ride the pump to the chains. Route from left to right are

Umpalumpa Humpachu .10a
Godfather 1 .10c
Godfather 2 .11a
As Wicked As It Seems .12a
The Ol' Roer 714 .10d

Getting There Suggest change

These directions are assuming you are heading out of Ten Sleep on Rt. 16 towards Buffalo,WY. Make a right on old road 435. You will pass a campground on your right, then the fish hatchery and a former forest service campground on your left, the road then turns a hard right. Follow after the hard right maybe 200' and you are making a hard left up a switchback, park in the pullout on the left side of this switchback,(see photo). Walk down 20' or so and you will see a trail on the opposite side of the road from where you parked. The trail splits about 20' into it and you take the right path. Go down 500'
or so and you will come to the river, cross it and follow a good trail up for about 10-15 minutes. You will walk right into this boulder it's hard to miss.

5 Total Climbs

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Location: The Godfather Boulder Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Godfather Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 167
Umpalumpa Humpachu
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 163
Godfather 1
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 165
Godfather 2
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 141
As Wicked As It Seems
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Umpalumpa Humpachu
 167
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Godfather 1
 163
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Godfather 2
 165
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
As Wicked As It Seems
 141
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Godfather Boulder »

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