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Straight to Rehab
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Booty Wall Area
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36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Mike Perkins, Clay Watson, Drew Bedford |
| Page Views: | 959 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Sep 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a really fun bolder problem. We kept lowering off it on the way down from White Lines/Heisenberg and decided it might make a good warmup for the steep climbing above. At first we thought it would be much harder but key beta makes a fun little ditty. If this were on a boulder down in the canyon it would be a super popular V4.
Please note that blocks guard the start. We cleaned many of the giant blocks but couldn't budge others. We did the best we could and you'll want to tread lightly and wear a helmet. If you feel you can clean it better, please have at it. Just know that there is one block that you stand on at the beginning that really helps to get started. I jumped on it and beat it with a hammer but nothing budged. Might be better to just tiptoe around it and let it be because once you're on the route, its clean as a whistle.
I gave it 2 stars but would give 3 if it were longer and the scramble to the climbing were easier to clean.
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