Royal Flush(Frisco Area) Anchor Beta Request

Because of the high probability of afternoon thunderstorms, bailing off Royal Flush can be common. I am proposing a project to install quick links and rings on the belay/anchor bolts of this climb to allow for an easier retreat if the weather closes in.

What I would like to know from the climbers on this forum is the current state of the belays on this climb. There are about 20 or so of double bolt anchors though many people skip some as they link pitches.

Has anyone done this climb recently and can provide some information on the state of the belay anchors? Do some have some sort of rappel hardware(quick links+rings, Fixe ring hangers, etc.)?

Thanks for all your help!

If you don't know first-hand how difficult it is to retreat, why are you proposing that the climb needs an easier retreat?

If you read the comments on the climb, there are numerous instances of people having to bail and leave gear because of afternoon thunderstorms. All I am trying to do is create a situation where people don't have to leave tat if they need to bail.

Unfortunately I cannot recall any specifics for you but from what I remember the first half (up to the talus field) seemed to be set up to be relatively easy to bail from.

The section above the talus field was not as easy as a couple of times previously I have seen bail biners left behind a pitch or two above the talus field.

My final 2 cents would be to leave it as is. It is possible to walk off from the talus field dividing the route and of you are bailing off of the lower half due to weather you probably shouldn't have started the route. The same generally applies to the upper half as well. If you decide to continue above the talus field with building weather and you have to bail, well that's just part of the game. A few biners left behind is no big deal and thus continues the cycle of climbing booty.

If I recall there is a history of extra quick links/rap anchors being removed. If you add more, I'd expect the same.

I bailed from the top of the pitch that ends at the talus field earlier this summer. We had no difficulties and didn't have to leave any gear. I think things are fine as they are. IIRC, there are short chains and no rap rings.

Earlier this summer, I got stuck behind two slow groups at the top of the talus field. After waiting an hour while the first group got off the ground, we rapped down Royal Flush to the top of P6, then straight down Rocklette to the ground.

Eight raps with a 60m rope, no gear left behind. No more anchor hardware is needed.

Yesterday We got stuck behind a party of 6 who camped in the boulder field and then attempted the upper pitches with overnight packs and only one lead climber. after a 4 hour wait we bailed from the crux pitch in the dark. We were able to rap with a 70m and only had to leave one locker at the start of the crux pitch.

We did have to re-lead the lower traverse pitch. We thought there was another straight rap line but were unsure of finding the anchors in the dark.

Most of the anchors had at least a quick link. They were offset and not well equalized when threaded through the quicklinks. The situation could be made better with chains and rings but it was manageable.

rapping with climbers still on route could be an issue.

I was able to to rappel from the top of the lower headwall without leaving any gear last week. There were plenty of links to use.