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Accident report - indian creek

Harry Netzer · · Roxbury, CT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 145

My friend degloved his finger on a carabiner gate at the red. We booked it to Lexington, fingertip in a sandwich bag. By some stroke of luck we went to a hospital with one of the best hand surgeons in the country, he had performed the first hand replacement, and he actually reattached the detached part that day. That skin kind of mummified and shrank, pulling the living skin back around the end of the finger. I'd see a hand surgeon today if this happened to me.

Logan Fuzzo · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 437

Well, now there's no way you're ever gonna send "the six fingered man" at cliffs of insanity

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
cragmantoo wrote:Hope the next person on that route knows what you left in the crack though....
Doesn't that constitute a bio-hazard? Should the local health department be informed?
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Going all Tommy Caldwell. I have never heard of this happening in a crack. So sorry that I now have and for your digits. Heal up!

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Okay MP, just saw the hand surgeon. I have a few hours to decide one of two surgery decisions:

1. Amputate the end digit of my ring finger. Pros - faster recovery, high success rate. Cons - shorter ring finger on my non dominate hand.

2 - save half of the digit by folding some skin over it. Pros - keeps length of finger almost normal. Cons - less success rate, finger sensitivity issues, longer recovery time

Curious of what y'all think. The most important thing to me is being able to climb in the future. If you wouldn't mind please weigh in for my consideration

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

I'd lop it off, based on the two choices above.

Don't underestimate the value of the "high success rate".

-ropewad - · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 125

Higher success rate. Like you said, its all about climbing again. The sensitivity issues would blow goat yogurt too.

And for shits and giggles, T.C. is missing that part of the digit too. You'd be long lost finger brothers!

Sean Peter · · IL · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 105

There's an article out there somewhere where TC talks about all he had to do to desensitize his finger post surgery. Definitely required some painful effort. Probably will be in for that need either way. How much does the doc lean towards chopping it?

crimsonraen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 90

Daaaamn! I am SO glad that you didn't deck! Major suck about the finger, but you've got a great ice-breaker, and you can always go as TC for Halloween. ;)

As for which surgery.. That's a tough one, man. It's definitely going to hurt to climb with either one for a bit. I think the first option, removal up to the knuckle will be better. I feel like the finger would be stronger that way, and maybe hurt less too. It will probably look better that way too. Also, like others have said, the higher success rate is MUCH more comforting. There are some pretty bad horror stories of skin not taking during recovery after surgeries. You don't want that. =\

Edit - Although.. How much of your finger is actually missing? Do you still have your nailbed?

Arin F · · Las Vegas · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 64

You were climbing with my buddy Andrew. Sucks he was unable to find the rest of your finger. I know he tried. Hope it heals quick and you are back on the rock soon.

I would go for the clean cut.

Brandon C · · Cincy, OH · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 240

I'd go with option #1.
Here's my rationale:
Your ring finger is already a weaker finger, compared to the rest. It's also your non dominant hand, which means its likely even less important. I would think the value of the ring finger would likely lend more towards its usefulness for sensation, which could potentially be compromised with option #2. Potentially numb finger just seems bad for climbing. You might even have a higher mechanical advantage for crimps, with a slightly shorter finger.

BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240

My 0.02 is that I would go with the higher success rate. It would blow more to go the other route and then it not work out and have to go back to the first. Don't quote me but I think that is what happened to TC and he had to go back and have it removed after trying first to save length on his digit. Good luck man with the recovery.

Edit: they tried to re-attach it but then he chose to remove it: While using a table saw during a renovation of his home in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado he slipped and chopped off the index finger on his left hand above the knuckle.
After grabbing some ice from the freezer he rushed to hospital, where surgeons reattached the severed digit with pins. But they warned Caldwell the finger would never again be strong enough to grip a rock. To him, that meant it was useless, so he told them to remove it.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I'd replace the hand with a hook. That would be really cool for Halloween ("Arrgh, matey") and ice climbing.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Sorry that happened, mate.
But just think--now you can be another Tommy Caldwell X 2.
(he only lost one finger tip). . . .

Seriously, get better soon.

Steve Bond · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 45
grog m wrote:Okay MP, just saw the hand surgeon. I have a few hours to decide one of two surgery decisions: 1. Amputate the end digit of my ring finger. Pros - faster recovery, high success rate. Cons - shorter ring finger on my non dominate hand. 2 - save half of the digit by folding some skin over it. Pros - keeps length of finger almost normal. Cons - less success rate, finger sensitivity issues, longer recovery time Curious of what y'all think. The most important thing to me is being able to climb in the future. If you wouldn't mind please weigh in for my consideration
Grog: In 2008 I had the tip of my index finger amputated to the first knuckle. I had sensitivity issues for about a year, only when it bumped head on into something, and that faded. No problem now. I would go with #2. You could always go back for #1 later.
In addition, my climbing has not taken that much of a hit...at least from the loss of the finger. Every once in awhile some crimp or jamb can't be done without the missing tip, but that's it. The other fingers took up the slack after awhile. Full disclosure -- I am a 5.10 climber so perhaps easier for me to climb without a tip.
Good luck and keep up the positive outlook. When I got my tip amputated a guy was in there getting his foot taken off, so it made for some perspective for me.
grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Steve, why would you go for 2? Will you add some more thought please

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Dude!!!!

Six pack for returning your finger?

Seriously, I hope you recover well and are out climbing again..... my god!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

But can you not try to keep the fingertip and amputate it later if it doesn't work out?

TE D · · SLC · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Rename: Fingers in a Pin scar

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
grog m wrote:Steve, why would you go for 2? Will you add some more thought please
About 5-6 years ago I had two friends have similar run ins with power tools. One kept the finger but it was at a 45 degree angle because they needed a way to screw it in. It was completely wacky and painful and gave him no end of trouble. It sure seemed like he was up against a choice, keep the tip and quit climbing or chop it and climb on. I need to call him one of these days and catch up.

The other opted out immediately. He was climbing really hard within months.

It'd be a pretty easy decision for me to make. Especially in the ring finger.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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