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Teenage Lobotomy
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Ted Doughty and Paul Dowdy |
| Page Views: | 1,030 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Eric M Parks on Sep 5, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Great face climb up a cracked patina wall to a large ledge, about 100 feet. Start below the sole bolt on the right and then traverse left into the cracked patina. After surmounting the ledge (2 bolt intermediate rap station) walk to the back right corner and climb two parallel outward flaring cracks to the top, about 30 feet.
Location
Route starts below the solitary bolt on the right. Double rope rappel gets you down to the ground from the anchors.
Protection
There is one bolt at the start of the face climb but the remainder of the face is well protected with stoppers and nuts. Bring medium sized C4s for the flaring cracks at the top. Three "bolt" anchor with webbing and rap ring.
At time of writing the anchor had one new Fixe Wedge bolt and two questionable, old 1/4" compression bolts.
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