Start of SW Arete. Looking up Pitch 1, which starts at a black dike. There are two ways to start this pitch, shown in the photo. Either climb directly up via a difficult groove (as the first ascent party did) or surmount the easier overhang/chockstone to the right. Then climb up and left towards the crest.

All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Deep Lake Area > Lost Temple Spire > Southwest Arete (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Start of SW Arete. Looking up Pitch 1, which starts at a black dike. There are two ways to start this pitch, shown in the photo. Either climb directly up via a difficult groove (as the first ascent party did) or surmount the easier overhang/chockstone to the right. Then climb up and left towards the crest.

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Pitch 5. This pitch ascends a challenging yet awesome 70-ft fingercrack in a right-facing corner and ends at a nice sloping ledge.

I'm following the second pitch. you can see the grassy approach ledges to get to the base of the route below center, and the first pitch starts on the broken rubble left of me.

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Steph Abegg

Sep 1, 2016

“Start of SW Arete. Looking up Pitch 1, which starts at a black dike. There are two ways to start this pitch, shown in the photo. Either climb directly up via a difficult groove (as the first ascent party did) or surmount the easier overhang/chockstone to the right. Then climb up and left towards the crest.”

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Route Overlay SW Arete

Pitch 2. This pitch starts by ascending the acute right-leaning corner.

Pitch 8. The deep chimney. There was some protection but it seemed a bit runnout by my comfort standards.

Southwest Arete - corners galore!

Jeff starting up the crux pitch.

Looking up at Pitch 6, which climbs a thin crack to just below the roofs, then moves right and up to a belay stance. Jeff is actually at the belay near the top of Pitch 7 which is a short traverse further right to the base of a chimney.

One of the rap anchors. Cam and sling for backup for the first person down.

Pitch 5. This pitch ascends a challenging yet awesome 70-ft fingercrack in a right-facing corner and ends at a nice sloping ledge.

Start of SW Arete. Looking up Pitch 1, which starts at a black dike. There are two ways to start this pitch, shown in the photo. Either climb directly up via a difficult groove (as the first ascent party did) or surmount the easier overhang/chockstone to the right. Then climb up and left towards the crest.

I'm following the second pitch. you can see the grassy approach ledges to get to the base of the route below center, and the first pitch starts on the broken rubble left of me.

Dave happy after crux #1 on pitch 2.

The three of us on top, myself, dave and joe. You can see the nasty weather rolling in to catch us on the way down.

Joe on belay, with deep lake directly behind him

Joe leading pitch 3

Myself and joe mucci, looking at the camera, with the camera looking up the route. photo by some guy named dave, we never liked him all that much....

Route Overlay SW Arete

Rappelling from a slung block in the upper chimney. These blocks look pretty precariously-wedged but unless you have double ropes to bypass this rappel station, it's the only option.

joe mucci leading on pitch 2. the wall of East Temple Peak is on the far right. Right below the rope in this shot, is one of the cruxes of the route, getting off the belay ledge and into a dihedral.

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