Mountain Project Logo

Protecting Tunnel Vision

Original Post
Ben L · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70

Thinking of doing Tunnel Vision and would like any tips on protecting the run out chimneys as best as poss. Should I buy a big bro? If so, what size? I only have cams up to #4 right now.

Not sure what to expect... How much pro do people typically manage place on pitches 3 and 5?

Richard Dower · · Overland Park, KS · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 150

It's been a few years but I too was a bit worried about the pro on that pitch but it turns out there was ample small piece pro on one side of the chimney.

Ben L · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70
thedogfather wrote:It's been a few years but I too was a bit worried about the pro on that pitch but it turns out there was ample small piece pro on one side of the chimney.
Thanks. Was that pitch 3 or 5?
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

I don't believe we had anything bigger than a #3 when I did it, and nothing felt unreasonably runout. To my best recollection all the gear used in the chimney was on the small side. If you're comfortable at the grade it will be no problem with a standard rack.

Edit to add: Bring a headlamp, so you can find the pro. :)

Nick Hamill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 65

I was just on it the other day. If you stay in the crack/chimney on pitch 3 and don't bring gear larger than a #3 then you'll be ~15/20' runout. Maybe I just didn't appreciate all of the small gear placements! I also didn't bring a #4
I have my doubts that a big bro would place well on that pitch, but I didn't actually try. My guess is a #5 or 6 cam would work better.

Ben L · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70

Thanks guys, this helps a lot

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,422

John is right, solo the tunnel, have fun. Wanted to say it earlier but was nervous to tell someone to solo anything. Every time you get anxious just lean back and you're pushing against the back wall.

Ben L · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70
John Wilder wrote:The chimney is mostly horizontal- so even though you'll be far from gear/belay, you really couldnt fall more than 15-20'.
Do you mean the tunnel John? Unfortunately I only made it up 3 pitches on my visit. My partner is still new to outdoors and I decided to retreat after completing the 3rd pitch rather than putting her through night climbing. Night rapping was still enough to rattle her. I do really want to get back and do the whole climb though. It would be nice to hear the tunnel was mostly horizontal. I didn't find the 3rd pitch chimney to be mostly horizontal though.. in fact as my 1st 5.7 lead I found it pretty scary.. but got through it ok (if you don't count scuffed elbows and knees).
R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Too bad. The Strip at night through the peep hole on the tunnel is cool. But the ticket at Angel food wall is not. I used a set of big nuts to protect the tunnel! You might not have them on your rack tho!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
B.L. wrote: Do you mean the tunnel John? Unfortunately I only made it up 3 pitches on my visit. My partner is still new to outdoors and I decided to retreat after completing the 3rd pitch rather than putting her through night climbing. Night rapping was still enough to rattle her. I do really want to get back and do the whole climb though. It would be nice to hear the tunnel was mostly horizontal. I didn't find the 3rd pitch chimney to be mostly horizontal though.. in fact as my 1st 5.7 lead I found it pretty scary.. but got through it ok (if you don't count scuffed elbows and knees).
Why were you rapping at night? Did you start too late? Had you planned on a night climb?
Ben L · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70
FrankPS wrote: Why were you rapping at night? Did you start too late? Had you planned on a night climb?
No hadn't planned on a night climb. Started later than planned and also took longer than expected on pitch 2 and 3. By the time we finished pitch 3, we realized we would have ended up climbing the last pitch and a half in the dark at our current pace. Decided to retreat and it got dark as we were rapping down. We had our headlamps though.
Ben L · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2015 · Points: 70
R. Moran wrote:Too bad. The Strip at night through the peep hole on the tunnel is cool. But the ticket at Angel food wall is not. I used a set of big nuts to protect the tunnel! You might not have them on your rack tho!
Luckily I had called the phone number to report that we were doing multi pitch before we climbed - so avoided a ticket :)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Protecting Tunnel Vision"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.