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Routes in Memorial Day Buttress
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Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Eyebrow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graduate School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High School Drop Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mouth Variation, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pork Shoulder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Small Brain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tombstone Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tombstone Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Madison Goodman/ Schuyler Collet (August 2016) |
| Page Views: | 1,115 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | madskates on Aug 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
After doing about 20 minutes of bushwhacking a casual route is what is needed. This route is locate 100 feet to the left of Aggression and follows a mostly independent line.
P1) Start of a left leaning crack into a right leaning crack that cuts through the roof. Pull the roof and belay at the base of the big corner. 5.11-
P2) Start up the corner stemming your way to the big flake that sticks outs creates an off width. Do a few friction moves to gain access above the flake and continue up the dihedral and cracks to a ledge. Belay here. 5.10-
P3) Climb up easy hand and fist cracks to a ledge 5.7. Belay here.
P4) Either climb a easy pitch to the summit block or climb the bolted variation out to the left (The Eyebrow 11a)
Descent: Walk of to the north of the route and to the base.
P1) Start of a left leaning crack into a right leaning crack that cuts through the roof. Pull the roof and belay at the base of the big corner. 5.11-
P2) Start up the corner stemming your way to the big flake that sticks outs creates an off width. Do a few friction moves to gain access above the flake and continue up the dihedral and cracks to a ledge. Belay here. 5.10-
P3) Climb up easy hand and fist cracks to a ledge 5.7. Belay here.
P4) Either climb a easy pitch to the summit block or climb the bolted variation out to the left (The Eyebrow 11a)
Descent: Walk of to the north of the route and to the base.
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