Better living through safer anchoring

Body cam footage or didn't happen.

J Marsella wrote:I used weighmyrack.com to calculate the weight and it will be more like 3 lbs and 6 oz. Please be more accurate if you plan to deride my innovation & progress.

I'm not saying its a bad idea, in fact its a great idea. 4 lbs. is a rough guess and it could be greater than 4 lbs. depending on brand and model of each item. Even so, 3.6 is heavy. Might as well carry a cordless drill and spend the time drilling anchors if safety is the greatest concern. I can build a equally strong PAS for 1/10th the cost(less the #4's) and 1/5th the weight.

Having the best equipment to build an anchor will not keep you any safer, complete competence with your equipment will. Looks like your doing your homework. I see incompetence almost every time I see others climbing. (i.e wrong knots used, improper use of a grigri, using very old equipment, anchors, ect..).

Square cams could work but not as well, modern round cam shape is based on the mathematical logarithmic spiral. Using a logarithmic spiral shape results in a constant angle between the cam and the rock at each contact point, This constant angle is designed to always provide the necessary friction to hold a cam in equilibrium. Cams have an acceptable placement zone around 70% of it's movement range. It can't be too open or too closed. Square would reduce the amount of acceptable placement substantially. There are plenty of other types of pro (Tricams, Nuts, Hex's, Offsets and others). If you could create a square pro with the same or greater range of placement as modern cams, I'd like to see it.

^^^

Super Fluke wrote: Square cams could work but not as well, modern round cam shape is based on the mathematical logarithmic spiral.

Another hater. Why are you against innovation? What if the guys who invented jet engines just said, "nah that's ok these radial piston engines are good enough". Think outside the box man!

Would this make a safe rappel anchor?

I hear that there's a Pikachu on Sickle Ledge. How many of these setups would I need to rappel in so I can catch that little guy?

Certain flatworms are just against innovation. Certain flatworms are not very kind.

I'm taking my ball and going home now.

One day when I am an awesome tradder and I climb up the Yosemite Dome, I'll show you!

Would the acronym SSEERREENNEE work for this setup or would that be too redundant?

The security of any anchor is not provided by the rigging but rather by the robustness of the primary placements. When the placements are less than ideal, you bust out the elaborate rigging arrays. If the placements are bomber, simplify.

John Long wrote:The security of any anchor is not provided by the rigging but rather by the robustness of the primary placements. When the placements are less than ideal, you bust out the elaborate rigging arrays. If the placements are bomber, simplify.

You didn't just give a serious response to this satirical thread, did you? Besides, have you ever built an anchor before? (facetious)

Ok all kidding aside, I dont know if I am more pleased that I got a response from John Long, or if I am more embarrassed that, with my awful anchor setup, he felt that one was necessary.

Also all kidding aside, I usually choose to anchor with the rope or with a cordolette setup, depending on the situation.

Carry on.

Damn dude, you hooked an actual lunker.

J Marsella wrote: I got a response from John Long,

He's just jealous because you thought of it first. Anyone can see that.

J Marsella wrote: all kidding aside, I usually choose to anchor with the rope or with a cordolette setup, depending on the situation.

I am crushed and now exist as a shell of the man I once was.

J Marsella - having John Long tell you off certifies this as pure gold. One for the archives...

Who's John Long?

^ a has been

J/kiddin.......
Dude walks up shit I can't climb

Burcheydawwwwwwg wrote:Who's John Long?

You're joking, right?

I think J.L snuck in a subtle thread-killing trump card with his comment, which still has me laughing at the absurdity of it. There were some pretty funny comments from everyone for sure, but I think he wins.

John Long wrote:The security of any anchor is not provided by the rigging but rather by the robustness of the primary placements. When the placements are less than ideal, you bust out the elaborate rigging arrays. If the placements are bomber, simplify.

Mind = blown. When's that knot-finishing book for indoor climbing coming out?

don'tchuffonme wrote: Mind = blown. When's that knot-finishing book for indoor climbing coming out?

That's just wrong.