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Elevation: 2,988 ft
GPS: 60.67319, 9.40429
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Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.

The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.

The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.

Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps

Getting There Suggest change

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.

394 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Norway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 11
via lara
Trad 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Bare Blabaer
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Gandalf
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Gollum
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Forsida
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Lys Og Skygge.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Skiloperen
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Lundeklubben
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Haegar
Trad 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Vestpillaren Direct
Trad 12 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Gulrot tyven
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Kakestykket
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Tungt møblement
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Espen Askeladd Soker Lykken
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
via lara Nissedal
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Bare Blabaer Lofoten > Djupfjord
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Gandalf Lofoten > Gandalf Wall
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Gollum Lofoten > Gandalf Wall
 20
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Forsida Lofoten > Svolvaergeita
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Lys Og Skygge. Lofoten > Pianokrakken
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Skiloperen Lofoten > Festvag > Store Festvag
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sydpillaren (South Pillar) Stetinden
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
Lundeklubben Lofoten > Festvag > Store Festvag
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Haegar Nissedal
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Vestpillaren Direct Lofoten > Presten
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
Gulrot tyven Trøndelag > … > Hanshelleren > Left Side
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Kakestykket Trøndelag > … > Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tungt møblement Trøndelag > … > Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Espen Askeladd Soker Lykken Trøndelag > … > Hanshelleren > Left Side
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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